Showing posts with label credit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label credit. Show all posts

Sunday, August 4, 2019

When It's A Good Idea To Refinance Your Mortgage

White livingroom

Homeowners who are considering refinancing their mortgages have one advantage to count on – interest rates remain low.

Refinancing from a 30-year or adjustable rate mortgage (ARM) to a lower rate can help consumers save money each month and cut the total amount that goes towards interest payments.

Here’s how to determine whether you will benefit by refinancing your mortgage. 

Here are the two major types of refinances:

1. Rate-and-term refinancing to save money. The majority of homeowners refinance the rest of the balance on their mortgage for a lower interest rate and an affordable loan term. (The loan term is the number of years it will take to repay the loan such as 15 or 30 years.)

2. Cash-out refinancing where you obtain a new mortgage for more than what you owe. The difference is often used to pay for renovations or to retire credit card debt.

Other reasons consumers refinance include to replace an adjustable-rate mortgage with a fixed-rate loan, eliminate FHA mortgage insurance or to settle a divorce.

Some consumers refinance to lower their monthly payment and have more money each month for bills, groceries or an auto loan.

“If a borrower is refinancing strictly to lower monthly mortgage payments and closing costs are $2,400, the borrower should expect to save at least this amount in interest payments for the duration they plan to have the loan,” says Richard Liu, a mortgage consultant for C2 Financial Corp., a San Diego-based mortgage brokerage.

Check today’s low rates on a mortgage refinance.

Determine how long it will take to break even

Mortgage closing costs add up to thousands of dollars. To decide whether a refinance makes sense, calculate the break-even point, which is the time it will take for the cost of the mortgage refinance to pay for itself.

“If you can shave one-half to three-quarters of a percentage point off your mortgage loan by refinancing, you should look into it,” says Greg McBride, CFA, chief financial analyst for Bankrate. “Just be sure the cumulative savings on monthly payments is enough to offset the costs of refinancing. If you’re planning on moving in the next year or two, it might not.”

Break-even point example

Break-even point = Total closing costs ÷ monthly savings

Example:

30 months to break even = $3,000 in closing costs ÷ $100 a month in savings

If you plan to keep the house for less than the break-even time, you probably should stay in your current mortgage.

Mind the term in rate-and-term

The formula above doesn’t measure your total savings over the life of the new mortgage. A refinance can cost more money in the long run if you start your new loan with a 30-year term.

Example:

Kris has been paying $998 a month for 10 years. If Kris doesn’t refinance, the payments will total $239,520 over the next 20 years.

With a refinance, Kris could pay $697 a month to repay the new loan in 30 years, or $885 a month to pay it off in 20 years.

$697 x 360 months = $250,920

$885 x 240 months = $212,400

In the example above, Kris borrowed $186,000 at 5 percent. 10 years later, Kris had a remaining balance of $146,000, and refinanced at 4 percent.

Use Bankrate’s mortgage calculator to compare your own loan scenarios:

  • See what happens when you input different mortgage terms (in years or months).
  • Reveal the amortization schedule to see how much total interest you would pay.

Good credit can save you lots of money on your mortgage. Check your credit score for free at myBankrate.

Pros and cons of cash-out refinances

Cash-out refinances often are used to pay down debt. They have pros and cons.

Imagine that you use a cash-out refinance to pay off credit card debt. On the pro side, you’re reducing the interest rate on the credit card debt. On the con side, you may pay thousands more in interest because you’re taking up to 30 years to pay off the balance you transferred from your credit cards to your mortgage.

But the biggest risk in this scenario is in converting an unsecured debt into a secured debt. Miss your credit card payments, and you get nasty calls from debt collectors and a lower credit score.

Miss mortgage payments, and you can lose your home to foreclosure. Home equity debt that’s added to the refinanced mortgage always was secured debt.

How to create a passive income stream

If you’re worried your salary is not enough to help you save a deposit for your first property or prepare you for retirement, building wealth through passive income is a strategy that might appeal to you.

What is passive income?

Passive income is a source of revenue that continues even after the work is complete, for example, royalties from a book or film.

We’re not suggesting you go out and write a book (not very passive) or make a blockbuster movie (not very savvy), but some of the below options do require a little effort in the beginning to then pay you in the long-term without you needing to lift another finger.

What we’ve tried to highlight here is how to make your money (that you’ve already earned) make more money (without you having to do much), so they do rely on you having some initial capital already behind you.

Some of these strategies involve an element of risk. If you are not fully comfortable with that, it might be more advisable to go down the slightly more labour intensive route of selling your stuff on eBay, setting up a side business or writing that bestseller after all.

What ways can I earn a passive income?

Here are eight strategies for creating a passive income stream:

    1. Switch your bank account
    2. Earn interest on savings
    3. Use a cashback or rewards credit card
    4. Buy via cashback websites
    5. Try out robo-investing
    6. Rent out a room (or parking space)
    7. Invest with peer-to-peer lending
    8. Purchase dividend-yielding stocks

1. Switch your bank account

Loyalty to your bank is a thing of the past, and banks know it. That’s why so many offer cash switching incentives (the current highest is £200 from HSBC) for current accounts, many of which link with savings accounts, some with interest as high as 5%.

Not all banks are part of the switching scheme, but those that are guarantee all direct debits and standing orders are transferred to your new account within seven days.

If they fail to do this and you wind up with a late payment charge from your old account, your new bank should cover it.

Most bank accounts have a minimum pay-in and a two direct debits requirement – make sure you meet them to reap the full benefits of the switching rewards.

Some charge a monthly fee, so watch out for that when you switch over as you do not want to pay out more than you earn.

2. Earn interest on savings

In today’s low interest climate, the best rates on savings are often reserved for fixed-rate accounts or bonds. These are savings accounts that lock away your money for a set period of time. Generally speaking, the longer it’s locked away, the higher the rate.

Only use these if you are comfortable with not having access to your money. If you suddenly realise you need it before the bond is up, you will most likely have to pay an early withdrawal fee.

One way to avoid this is to get a current account with a high interest rate as we mentioned above.

Today, the best returns on savings are from Lifetime and Help to Buy ISAs where the government pays you a 25% bonus on your funds. The Help to Buy ISA pays this on withdrawal, whereas the Lifetime ISA pays in the bonus annually.

3. Use a cashback or rewards credit card

If you are going to spend on a credit card anyway (which you may need to do to build up your credit history), you might as well get one that gives you cash bonuses to do so.

There are a few cards out there that offer cashback or that operate reward schemes that could give you discounts in certain stores or earn you air miles.

However, always approach credit cards with caution – they are a debt product after all. If you do not think you will be able to pay it back in full every month, your interest repayments will very quickly outpace any cashback or rewards.

4. Buy via cashback websites

Cashback websites are essentially third party portals that you visit before clicking through to a website from which you were already going to buy something.

Using the cashback site’s link rewards them with money, some of which they pass on to you. How much you could get is usually shown as a percentage of the total amount you spend, but you are not always guaranteed to get that amount.

Like with a cashback credit card, only use a cashback site if you were planning to spend that money anyway – that way, you really could be getting something for nothing.

5. Try out robo-investing

Robo-investing is one of the slightly riskier ways to make a passive income, especially as you cannot specify where your funds get invested.

Unlike with traditional savings accounts where your money just sits there earning (or not earning much) interest, here it gets invested so you could reap bigger financial rewards. Remember, you could also experience a loss, so proceed with caution.

Robo-investing, open banking apps like Moneybox round up your spending and invest the difference.

For example, if you bought something costing £2.80, Moneybox rounds it up to £3 and invests the spare 20p. You can pick from three levels of risk: cautious, balanced, or adventurous.

The idea is, the amounts are so nominal you do not notice them not being there – it’s like putting your spare change in a piggy bank rather than having it jangle around in your pocket.

However, if you are someone who likes to keep an eye on every penny, this may not be the best way for you to earn a passive income.

6. Rent out a room (or parking space)

Buying and then renting out an entire property is a good way to earn a passive income, but it’s an expensive one and requires a lot of work.

For starters, you’ll have to pay an extra 3% in stamp duty (if it’s your second home, otherwise you pay the normal stamp duty rates), need a 25% deposit and – if you’ve already exceeded the tax-free income threshold (£12,500 in 2019/2020) – you’ll have to pay income tax on any earnings.

However, if you have a spare room in your current property or have an empty parking space in an area where parking is an absolute premium, you can rent it out.

Again, this is something you will need to report to the tax man, but if you are not using the space, it could be a great way to earn passive income.

7. Invest with peer-to-peer lending

Peer-to-peer (P2P) lending consists of a personal loan made between you and a borrower, facilitated through a third-party intermediary such as Zopa or Funding Circle.

As a lender, you earn income via interest payments made on the loans. But because the loan is unsecured, you face the risk of the borrower defaulting on payments.

To minimise that risk, you should do two things:

  • Diversify your lending portfolio by investing smaller amounts over multiple loans
  • Analyse the historical data on the borrowers to make informed picks

It takes time to master the metrics of P2P lending, so it’s not entirely passive and because you’re investing in multiple loans, you’ll need to pay close attention to payments received.

Whatever you make in interest should be reinvested if you want to build income.

8. Purchase dividend-yielding stocks

A dividend is a sum of money paid to shareholders out of a company’s profits. Shareholders in companies with dividend-yielding stocks receive payments at regular intervals from the company.

Since the income from the stocks is not related to any activity other than the initial financial investment, owning dividend-yielding stocks can be one of the most passive forms of making money.

The tricky part is choosing the right stocks. To try and minimise loss, thoroughly investigate the company you’re thinking of investing in. Do not rush into anything!

If you are unsure of what to do, it might be worth speaking to a financial advisor. They will explain the risks meaning you can make an informed decision about the best course of action.

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Last updated: 18 April, 2019

How Brexit will affect your finances

In less than a year from now – on March 29, 2019 to be precise – the UK is scheduled to leave the European Union.

Although much of the political debate has been over the rights of citizens to move within Europe and the pros and cons of the Single Market, Brexit will also have an affect on our everyday finances.

Here we look at how this might affect savings, business and credit cards in the UK.

Interest rates

On May 10, the Bank of England announced it was not changing interest rates, which would stay at 0.5%, amid fears that the UK economy was too fragile to cope with a rate rise.

This is good news for borrowers, including those people with credit card debt and mortgages, but bad news for savers. Consumer price inflation is currently at 2.5%, which means that the real purchasing value of savings is being eroded.

Fitch, the ratings agency, said the household savings ratio (relative to income) was now 4.9%, a historical low. It forecasts that the UK base interest rate will rise gradually to reach 1.25% by the end of 2019.

“The impact of the Brexit referendum on real wages may be fading, but Brexit uncertainty creates risks of a bigger shock to growth and employment,” it says in a Special Report “Weakening UK Household Finances Pose Risks” published on May 8.

Foreign exchange rates

The value of your holiday pound, and the exchange rate you get when you use your credit card to spend abroad, are affected by foreign exchange (forex) fluctuations.

As of May 2018, sterling is worth just over 1.13 euros, compared with May 2016, when it was worth 1.3 euros, and July 2015 when it reached a ten-year peak of 1.44. Since July 2016 it has traded within a range of 1.08 to 1.12 and has recovered from its low of 1.07 soon after the Brexit result.

GBP vs. EUR for the last five years

Xe.com

When you make overseas purchases using your credit card or debit card, your provider applies a foreign currency conversion rate. This rate will be affected by the variations in the value of the pound, and any volatility in exchange rates.

If the Brexit talks look as though the UK is failing to secure a good deal, sterling may fall again. The Bank of England may have to raise interest rates to protect the pound.

Angus Dent, CEO of ArchOver, a peer to peer lender, said: “With Britain’s GDP growth at just 0.1%, it’s no surprise that the Bank of England has kept interest rates at 0.5%. [The] decision is yet another result of the uncertainty surrounding the UK’s financial health. And keeping rates so low means savers lose out once again.”

Credit card rates and rewards

While interest rates remain low, credit card companies are unlikely to increase their own interest rates. However, the era of rewards and benefits for holding a card seems to be at an end, says Andrew Hagger, founder of MoneyComms, the money information service.

“The only decent rewards you get now is if you use a card to buy items within a certain store – for example using a Tesco card to shop instore. If you use the Tesco card, or ones from M&S, John Lewis and Sainsbury’s outside their own shops, the rewards are slim. I don’t see any major changes in the pipeline.”

Credit card fees

Until the Brexit deal is finalised, the government in the UK has to comply with EU directives. After Brexit, all existing European law will be incorporated into UK law.

This includes a ban on credit and debit card surcharges and applies to all purchases made within the European Economic Area (EEA). It means airlines can’t add hidden charges for online bookings. There are unlikely to be any changes in the short term, as Teresa May has heralded this move as a victory for consumers.

Savings compensation

If you have savings with a bank or financial institution that goes bust, you’ll be compensated by the UK’s Financial Services Compensation Scheme (FSCS).

The compensation limit is £85,000, equivalent to the €100,000 deposit protection limit in the EU. Similar terms are likely to be included in UK law when the changeover happens. Read more about compensation limits on the FSCS website.

Interchange fees

The EU put in place a 0.3% cap on credit card interchange fees that was aimed at reducing the cost of card payments. The UK Cards Association estimated that almost £900 million in savings should be passed onto consumers.

Interchange is a fee paid by the retailer’s card acceptance provider to the consumer’s card issuer each time a card payment transaction occurs.

The cap on fees applies on most product types within the European Economic Area (EEA).

This will become law in the UK after Brexit, and is unlikely to change, says Andrew Hagger, of MoneyComms.

“All the EU laws will be incorporated into English law and then the government will look at which ones need to be changed. Interchange fees aren’t going to be a priority as there are many other issues they will need to look at, so I anticipate things staying much as they are for several years at least.”

Business and the economy

There are still some concerns about the health of the economy, which is why the Bank of England decided not to increase interest rates this time.

Brian Johnson, Insolvency Partner with the accountant HW Fisher, said that the economy had been affected by concerns over Brexit, and would continue to do so while the uncertainty remained.

“Immediately after the Referendum there was doom and gloom, and then the stockmarket recovered and the pound came down which made exports cheaper and interest rates stayed low,” he said. “That was a false dawn, with people saying that Brexit was not a problem.”

Behind the scenes, businesses were delaying decisions on investment and recruitment until the negotiations were concluded, he said, and there would be more insolvencies among businesses. This was not necessarily a bad thing, as poorly-run companies would be taken over by more efficient managers.

Now read: How to find the best current account

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Last updated: 28 January, 2019

How Much Can I Borrow? Mortgage Affordability Calculator

Use our how much can I borrow calculator to work out how much you can borrow in the UK as a first time buyer, moving home or remortgager, even with no deposit or bad credit. Explore our guide to learn how much you can afford based on your financial situation. Plus, understand how lenders assess your affordability and decide how much you can borrow in the UK.

How much mortgage can I get?

How much you can borrow for a mortgage in the UK is generally a maximum of 5 times your income - or 5 times your joint income, if you're applying for a mortgage with someone else.

Use the how much can I borrow mortgage affordability calculator above for an estimation on how big a mortgage you can get in the UK.

Mortgage lenders always conduct affordability checks before loaning you any money to ensure you can meet the monthly repayments. Since the 2008 financial crash, mortgage lenders are far more strict about who they lend to. They judge your affordability based on an in depth discovery of your income, all your outgoings and your total debt. They also scrutinise your credit file.

Lenders also want to know you could afford the repayments should the interest rates increase by 4% above the Bank of England base rate. This is known as stress testing.

You may only be able to get the maximum amount if you already have a current account with the lender, or you have a very large deposit.

To get a more accurate maximum mortgage figure, apply for an agreement in principle (AIP). An AIP is not the same as a formal mortgage offer. It is a theoretical figure of what a lender may be willing to lend you.

Most estate agents will not take an offer seriously without an AIP. You can secure one quickly online or via a mortgage broker.

How much mortgage can I afford?

How much mortgage you can borrow and how much mortgage you can afford are slightly different. Before you borrow the maximum amount, you should think about whether you can afford the monthly repayments on a large mortgage.

A general rule of thumb is that you don't want to spend more than 30% of your take home salary on mortgage repayments. Any more than that and you risk being "house poor" - where you own a house, but lack the money to do other important things (like build up your savings, go on holiday, etc.)

In London, where house prices are very high, it can be hard to keep your repayments under 30% of your income.

Before getting a mortgage, you really should do the maths on what the total cost of home ownership. If your mortgage payments and household bills look like they will take up 40 or 50% of your income, you should consider getting a smaller mortgage.

How much mortgage can I get with bad credit?

If you have bad credit you may still be able to get a mortgage, but it will be harder to find a lender willing to give you a loan.

You will likely need a larger deposit if you have a history of bad credit, and the best mortgage rates won't be available to you.

Generally the best way to find a bad credit mortgage is to talk to a mortgage broker.

How much deposit do I need to get a mortgage?

In most cases, you will need a minimum of a 5% deposit to secure a mortgage, meaning you’ll need a 95% mortgage loan. The size of the loan versus the property value is referred to as loan-to-value ratio, or LTV.

If you are able to save more, for instance a 10, 15 or 20% deposit, you’ll increase your chances of being accepted for cheaper mortgage products. Lower interest rates (and small set-up fees) equal cheaper mortgages.

The cheapest mortgages are generally only available if you have a big deposit, or – if you’re remortgaging or moving house – a large amount of equity in your property.

How much can I borrow with no deposit?

If you have no deposit - otherwise known as 100% LTV - you can still get a mortgage, but your options will be much more limited than if you had a deposit of 5, 10 or 15%.

No-deposit mortgages generally have a much higher interest rate, which means you'll pay a lot more in interest over the long term.

While 100% LTV mortgages are available for first-time buyers, you can find better and cheaper products if you can save up a deposit of at least 10%.

How do lenders assess my affordability?

Most AIPs only require a soft search on your credit file, which means other lenders will not see it. A real mortgage application will leave a mark on your file that all other lenders will be able to see. Generally, having more marks can count against you because it could suggest you are desperate for credit. Being turned down for a loan product will have a negative impact on your credit file.

Mortgage lenders will review your credit file in depth to make absolutely sure you could afford the monthly repayments of the mortgage you’ve applied for. Each lender has their own scoring system – it does not see the score you do, that’s just for you – and may check one or more of your credit files (from Experian, Equifax or TransUnion), so it is vital you check all three before you apply for a mortgage.

Lenders want to know how stable an investment you are by looking at how long you’ve been in a job, lived at your current address and had a bank account.

Income vs. outgoings

On application, mortgage lenders will look at your salary, guaranteed bonuses, pension, investments and any other income you have. You’ll need to prove your income with payslips and bank statements. If you are self-employed, there are some additional hoops to jump through (see below for more details).

Lenders will also closely examine your outgoings. More than just your rent (or current mortgage repayments if you’re remortgaging), which is likely your biggest monthly expense, they’ll look at other regular bills (credit cards, mobile phone, broadband, utilities) as well as your living expenses.

If you are down to £0 the day before pay day, or worse still, you’re in your overdraft, and your bank statements show you eat at restaurants four times a week, you could find it very hard to get a mortgage as it will look like you cannot manage your money.

For that reason, it’s worth trying to get your finances in order at least six months before you apply for a mortgage.

“Stress testing”

You might be able to afford the monthly payments if you secure a mortgage with a low interest rate, but what would happen if rates increased to 3% above the lender’s standard variable rate (SVR)? The average SVR today is 5.11% – so you would be stress-tested on an interest rate of around 8%. This is known as “stress testing”.

Could you afford the repayments should your personal circumstances change? That is not just what a lender considers, but something you will need to ask yourself too.

Having enough savings to cover three months of mortgage payments could really be worth your while in case your circumstances change – for instance, if you lose your current job.

Lenders may limit the amount you can borrow based on their findings.

Should I borrow the maximum amount?

It can be tempting to borrow your maximum mortgage amount and buy the most expensive property you can afford – but that may not be the right thing to do as it leaves you little wiggle room if rates go up or your income goes down…or both!

To begin with, one of the easiest ways to lower your monthly repayments is to borrow less money, giving you a lower LTV. If you have £20,000 as a deposit, that’s only 5% of a £400,000 property, but 10% of a cheaper £200,000 property.

The other thing to consider is that mortgage products are usually arranged in a tiered fashion, with a lower interest rate offered every time your LTV goes down by 5%. So, 95% LTV mortgages generally have higher interest rates than 90% LTV mortgages, which have higher rates than 85% LTV mortgages and so on.

If you’re looking at buying a property and your LTV would be 87%, you might consider raising a slightly larger deposit to push yourself over the 85% LTV threshold, otherwise you’d be stuck at 90%. Likewise, it might be worth looking at a slightly cheaper property, where the same size deposit would provide a better LTV and allow you to keep some money aside.

Borrowing the maximum amount possible could leave you “house poor” – where you own a house, but you have no funds left to pay for everyday stuff without going into debt.

How can I drop my LTV band if I’m remortgaging?

If you’re remortgaging your home, the exact same rule of thumb applies – you want to aim for the lowest LTV possible – but instead of raising a big deposit you get to use the equity in your home.

For example: you raised a deposit of £40,000 and borrowed £360,000 to buy a home valued at £400,000 (an LTV of 90%). Now the five-year fixed-rate deal deal has ended, you want to remortgage to a new fixed-rate mortgage. You’ve since paid off £40,000 from the principal debt – so you owe the lender £320,000 – and your home has gone up in value to £420,000.

Assuming you want to get a new mortgage for the same amount – £320,000, with £100,000 in equity – you would have an LTV of just 76%.

However, a 76% LTV mortgage will most likely have the same rates as an 80% LTV mortgage. To drop to a 75% LTV (and therefore lower the interest rates) you would need to add £5,000. Alternatively, you could try and get a slightly higher valuation for your home, which would help you drop to a 75% LTV.

If you’re remortgaging to unlock money for home improvements or other expenses, try to keep your LTV tier in mind. If you can stay within a lower LTV tier, perhaps by borrowing slightly less, you’ll save a lot more in interest repayments in the long-term.

How much mortgage can I get if I’m self-employed?

First things first, you can still get a mortgage if you are self-employed, you’ll just have a few more hoops to jump through than if you were a full-time employee.

Lenders will consider you more of a risk, so you will need to gather together at least two complete tax-years of business accounts and tax returns. Some lenders require that the documentation has been signed by a chartered accountant to prove that the information you’ve provided is reliable.

Your maximum mortgage will then be based on your net profit, not total turnover. The exact calculation will vary from lender to lender, and also on your legal status – self-employed is different from the sole director of a limited company, for example.

Some lenders may base your maximum mortgage on your past trading history, while others might want projections of future customers and income. Organise both, just in case.

If you’re self-employed, speaking to a mortgage broker is pretty much a must. They will know which lenders will most likely accept you, therefore cut the chance of a credit score-damaging rejection.

Edited by: Sarah Guershon. Mortgage calculator updated to version 1.11 on July 25, 2019.

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Last updated: 2 August, 2019

Playing Your Cards Right: Avoiding the debt zombie apocalypse

Crowd of people facing the same direction

Households with credit card debt are spending more than households without credit card debt in seven of the nine discretionary spending categories that our sister site, CreditCards.com recently asked about. This is a really big problem because the average credit card charges a record-high 17.86 percent. If you have credit card debt, you’re essentially spending 18 percent more for everything you buy.

I want to highlight that these are discretionary purchases – not housing and groceries. And they’re big line items, which is important because I’m not into the whole latte-shaming thing. If you’re in debt, it’s probably not because of small luxuries. A $425 monthly car payment is much more likely to be the culprit. That’s about $5,100 a year.

Or if it’s not the car payment, maybe it’s leisure travel or dining out. The average household with credit card debt that spends on leisure travel runs up an annual bill of $2,211, and dining/takeout is close behind ($2,186).

There’s also clothing/shoes/accessories ($1,892), cell phone services/upgrades ($1,629), out-of-home entertainment ($1,538), fitness ($1,385), subscription services ($1,198) and personal care/beauty ($1,146).

Remember, these expenditures are optional! Even the car payment. You might need a car to get to work and elsewhere, but you don’t need a brand-new car. The average new car costs $37,577, according to Kelley Blue Book. On average, $31,099 of that is financed, Experian reports, for 69 months. That’s almost six years of $500+ monthly payments and a big reason why so many households are in debt.

Buying a cheaper used car or holding onto your existing car a bit longer would save a ton of money. You could also opt for public transportation or ridesharing services such as Uber and Lyft. And note, these car payment figures I’m quoting are just for the loan. They don’t even include insurance, gas and maintenance, which would conservatively add a few thousand dollars to the annual total.

Lifestyle creep is to blame

A different CreditCards.com survey found that, among those with credit card debt, 56 percent have been in debt for at least a year and 37 percent have been in debt for at least two years. More than a third of credit card debtors blamed emergency expenses for landing them in debt, and 28 percent pointed to day-to-day costs. However, many people are blurring the line between necessary and discretionary.

In all nine categories, the CreditCards.com data found fewer than half of respondents would be willing to significantly trim their spending in order to save money. Yikes!

I don’t mean to sound like you can’t have any fun. I just think there are plenty of ways to have fun that don’t end up costing you an arm and a leg. The Federal Reserve says the average household with credit card debt owes $5,700. If you only make minimum payments at 17.86 percent, you’ll be in debt for 19 ½ years and you’ll end up paying $7,526 in interest. That’s a recipe for financial disaster. How can you save for retirement, college tuitions and other priorities if you’re living like that?

The median household credit card debt is $2,300. It could potentially be retired in one year if the family opted for a staycation rather than a big trip. Even cutting your annual dining out bill in half would make a huge dent. So, turn a restaurant visit into a special treat rather than a weekly (or in some cases, daily) habit. Pro tip: bring your lunch to work for one week and see how much money you save.

Other ways to get out of credit card debt

Besides raising your income (through a side hustle, perhaps) and cutting your expenses, take advantage of balance transfer credit cards. These allow you to move a high-rate credit card balance to a new card with a 0 percent interest rate for up to 21 months.

Refrain from making new purchases on this card. Divide how much you owe by the number of months in your no-interest promotion and stick to that monthly payment schedule. You’ll knock out the average $5,700 debt with 21 payments of $271 and change. Beware of transfer fees – that 21-month offer (the Citi Simplicity® Card) charges a 5 percent transfer fee. Most balance transfer cards charge a transfer fee ranging from 3 to 5 percent.

The longest 0 percent period without a transfer fee is 15 months (available on the Chase Slate, the BankAmericard® credit card and the Amex EveryDay® Credit Card from American Express). In all three instances, you need to transfer the balance within 60 days of opening the account to get the transfer fee waived.

I’m confident that everyone can get out of credit card debt – usually in no more than a year or two – if they sign up for a balance transfer card and make lifestyle modifications such as earning more or spending less.

More from Ted:

Ted Rossman is the industry analyst and columnist at Bankrate.com and CreditCards.com. He has been interviewed by hundreds of media outlets, including the Wall Street Journal, Forbes, NBC Nightly News, CBS News, CNBC and Fox Business. Ted also writes the “Wealth and Wants” column for CreditCards.com, which focuses on cash back cards. He previously spent seven years as a member of the award-winning communications department at CreditCards.com and its sister sites, The Points Guy and Bankrate.

In Equifax Settlement Over 2017 Data Breach, Consumers Unlikely To See Full Cash Payout

Equifax headquarters

The Federal Trade Commission recently announced its settlement with Equifax following the credit bureau’s 2017 security breach that affected 147 million American consumers.

As part of the settlement, up to $425 million was designated to help people affected by the breach. Originally, consumers who were affected could file a claim to receive either a $125 payout or a decade of free credit monitoring.

After “overwhelming” public response, however, it’s now unlikely that any claimants will receive a payout equal to the amount originally stated.

“A large number of claims for cash instead of credit monitoring means only one thing: each person who takes the money option will wind up only getting a small amount of money,” said Robert Schoshinski, assistant director of the division of privacy and identity protection, in a blog post on the FTC website Wednesday. “Nowhere near the $125 they could have gotten if there hadn’t been such an enormous number of claims filed.”

The details

According to the FTC, though the settlement designated at least $300 million and up to $425 million to help consumers, just $31 million of that was set aside for the cash payout option.

In the original notice, consumers were given the option to choose between up to 10 years of free credit monitoring services or, for those who already have credit monitoring services, a $125 cash payment.

Those affected may also be able to claim compensation for time spent dealing with the breach ($25 per hour up to 20 hours) and for any identity theft that can be traced to the breach (up to $20,000), making up the rest of the designated funds.

Should you file a claim?

If you were one of the 147 million people affected and have not filed your claim with the FTC, it’s still worth taking the time to do so, says Ted Rossman, industry analyst at Bankrate.

You can determine your eligibility here and file your claim here.

The FTC is encouraging those who haven’t yet filed a claim to opt for the credit monitoring option. However, there are plenty of free credit monitoring services out there that you can take advantage of, including from Bankrate, which means claiming the cash payout from Equifax is likely still the better option for many consumers. You can ensure your credit is safe and receive the payout as an added bonus, even if it’s unlikely to be any amount near $125.

But your precautionary measures shouldn’t end there. Especially as major data breaches continue to affect millions of customers of popular brands like Marriott and, most recently, Capital One, it’s more important than ever to ensure your information is protected.

“Credit monitoring and checking your credit reports and bank/credit card statements are good, but are supplements,” Rossman says. “These will just tell you there was a problem, rather than preventing it from happening in the first place.”

Next steps

“My top tip is to freeze your credit,” Rossman says. “That’s the best way to prevent criminals from opening unauthorized accounts in your name. It’s free, quick and easy. Contact Equifax, Experian and TransUnion to do this. I froze my credit with all three bureaus online in less than 10 minutes total.”

In addition to credit freezes and monitoring systems, take it upon yourself to review your credit card and bank statements as well as your credit reports regularly to ensure nothing is awry. Nobody knows your financial situation better than you, and you can be the first line of defense against any fraudulent accounts or spending that occurs in your name.

It’s also important to develop strong alphanumeric passwords, don’t repeat passwords and update passwords on all accounts regularly.

Rossman cites a recent CreditCards.com survey that found more than 80 percent of adults are guilty of reusing passwords and most internet users who do reuse passwords use the same password at least half (61 percent) or all (22 percent) of the time.

“If you find it hard to remember all of your different logins, use a password aggregator such as LastPass to do it for you,” he says. “They’ll create secure, unique passwords for all of the sites you visit and you only have to remember one master password.”

And though there isn’t much you can do to prevent massive data breaches from occurring, you can help prevent fraud at an individual level by staying aware of the ways in which you may be putting your data at risk.

“That CreditCards.com survey found about half of Americans had done sensitive business over public Wi-Fi over the past year, about a third carry their Social Security Card on a daily basis and 28 percent throw out sensitive mail without shredding,” Rossman says. “Don’t commit these data security sins.”

Post-Fed rate cut: Here’s how credit cards are affected

The Federal Reserve has announced its plan to cut rates, meaning cardholders across the country might experience slightly lower interest rates from their credit card issuers.

At the July 2019 Federal Open Market Committee (FOMC) meeting, the Fed voted to cut interest rates by 25 basis points — a relatively small decrease — with the intention of slightly boosting the economy in case of economic downturn.

Fed Chairman Jerome Powell has been hinting at a rate cut for the past few months. With risks to the economic outlook arising, the Fed hopes the cut will preemptively reinvigorate the economy.

The meeting in summary

“[The cut] is intended to ensure against downside risks from weak global growth and trade policy uncertainty; to help offset the effects these factors are currently having on the economy; and to promote a faster return of inflation to our symmetric 2 percent objective,” Powell said at the July 31 meeting.

The chairman also clarified his previous statements, confirming that the boost would not mean a series of further cuts.

“We’re thinking of it essentially as a mid-cycle adjustment to policy,” said Powell. “I’m contrasting it there with the beginning…of a lengthy cutting cycle. That’s not what we’re seeing now. That’s not our perspective now, or outlook.”

What this means for credit cards

The federal funds rate, determined by the Federal Reserve, typically affects the prime rate — or the interest rate banks charge customers with the highest credit ratings. This chain reaction, in turn, continues as the primate rate affects credit card interest rates.

As long as you’re paying your balance in full every month, you likely won’t see an impact from the increase or decrease of rates. But if you have credit card debt or are planning a large purchase in the coming weeks, the lowering of rates can make paying off debt a tad cheaper.

“While credit cards are affected directly by the prime rate, most consumers will feel a minimal impact with this cut,” says Mike Kinane, head of U.S. Bankcards at TD Bank. “We’ve had nine consecutive rate increases since 2008, so one .25 percent decrease won’t result in a dramatic change to a customer’s monthly credit card bill.”

Pay off debt now, not later

With the Fed rate cut, now is the time to pay off your credit card debt. Consider balance transfer card options that can help you consolidate and pay off your debt within an introductory zero percent APR window.

For example, the no annual fee Capital One® SavorOne℠ Cash Rewards Credit Card offers an introductory zero percent APR for 15 months on purchases and balance transfers (16.24% – 26.24% variable APR thereafter). You can transfer your debt to the SavorOne — for a 3 percent balance transfer fee — and pay it off over the course of 15 months while not owing anything in interest.

After your debt is paid off, you’ll still find value in the card’s unlimited 3 percent cash back on dining and entertainment, 2 percent at grocery stores and 1 percent on all other purchases.

The bottom line

The Fed’s rate cut may only marginally impact your cards’ interest rates, but it’s still a good idea to jumpstart your debt payoff as soon as possible.

Learn more about how to start budgeting, paying off your debts and choosing the right cards for your lifestyle here.

Student credit cards 101

Students chatting together in school corridor

Heading to college can be a big change of pace. The new location and overall lifestyle is both exciting and overwhelming. While applying for a credit card may not be the first thing on your mind when entering this new experience, “Intro to Building Credit” is definitely a course you’ll want to take sooner rather than later.

Many credit card issuers offer cards designed specifically for students. Now, you don’t have to be a student to apply for one – and it’s no guarantee you’ll be approved. But student credit cards do offer an opportunity for inexperienced cardholders to start building credit.

Here’s a study guide on how they can help.

Intro to student credit cards

Student cards are marketed primarily to people in school who have not yet had a credit card in their own name. They can be a great way to solve the “you can’t apply for a credit card without a credit history” problem.

Issuers are willing to take the risks that come with a lack of creditworthiness for the chance to secure a future loyal cardholder. For students, you’ll benefit by being able to use your card on purchases and establish a decent credit history — something that’s vital when applying for an apartment or a car loan.

You might be thinking that building a good credit score will be difficult on a college budget. But student credit cards offer affordable benefits like $0 annual fees, cash back opportunities and introductory specials.

Cards like the Citi Rewards+℠ Student Card give promotions like 0% APR for your first 7 months (16.74% – 26.74% variable thereafter), allowing you to spend on books and food interest-free.

Some cards allow cardholders to earn rewards tailored to the student lifestyle. For example, the Discover it® Student Cash Back Card features cash back deals at restaurants, gas stations, grocery stores and Amazon.com, in addition to a $20 statement credit each year you keep your GPA at a 3.0 or higher.

Student credit cards vs. traditional credit cards

More traditional cards are only accessible after building a credit history, so there are some key areas where they differ from student cards.

For starters, student cards usually have a lower credit limit. Being new to credit, students aren’t yet fully trusted by card issuers when it comes to paying back large balances. Credit providers are known to set limits in the $300-$400 range to begin, but you should be able to get a limit increase approved after displaying consistent, on-time payments.

Although some cards allow for great rewards, your typical student credit card will be more limited with its perks. You can find plenty of student cards with cash back and category savings available, but you won’t find luxury rewards like airline miles, sign-up bonuses or enormous savings.

Additionally, student cards are typically unsecured. While secured credit cards are an alternative for new cardholders, a cash deposit is required to get one. The collateral makes your card much less risky to the issuer, but tying up a few hundred dollars can be prohibitive for a penny-pinching student.

Qualifying for a student card

Age becomes a factor when applying for a student card, so things can get a little tricky. By law of the Credit Card Act of 2009, if you’re under 21, you’ll either need the approval of a cosigner or proof that you earn enough independently to make the anticipated payments. Not every credit card company will allow you to use a cosigner, so you may need to shop around if you’re still underage. Another option for younger students is to join someone else’s account as an authorized user.

Card issuers may be more lenient with students’ proof of income, so consider providing evidence of money you’ve earned at any full-time, part-time or seasonal jobs you’ve had. Student loans, grants or scholarship money won’t apply, but cash regularly deposited into your account by means of inheritance or gifts can qualify as proof of payment as well.

Keep in mind, there are some lenders who make it a requirement that you’re a college student when applying for their card. On your application, you’d see a space designated to providing your school’s information. If you’re not a student but find yourself in a similar situation, you may be interested in zero percent APR cards or no annual fee cards as alternative options.

Simply put, if you’re a student of age and have worked in the past, you should have no issue when applying for a student card. Utilize credit card calculator resources to assess your current financial standing and decide on the right card for you.

Using your student card

As a new credit builder, it’s important to start a trend of proper financial practices. Wise credit card usage is the same whether you’re a student or not, but there are certain things you should know that are specific to your case.

One thing to be aware of with student cards is that they have high interest rates. So, staying up to date and even paying more than the minimum requested payment is essential. Budgeting ahead of time will be important when getting used to paying off your new card, so be disciplined to avoid hefty interest charges or late fees. The majority of credit issuers are compatible with mobile banking if you’re looking for a way to start tracking your payments.

The simple, but important key to staying on the right track is to avoid overspending. By doing so, you can set up automatic payments to ensure you’re on time each month and not get hit with penalties. Check your statements regularly and familiarize yourself with your spending habits. If you do slip up by missing a payment or exceeding your credit limit, it’s not the end of the world — but it might be time to set a calendar reminder.

Bottom line

Student credit cards help set the tone for your credit-building future, so be sure to do your homework before applying for one. With the right student credit card and a well-managed budget, you can build yourself an impressive credit score in as little as a year. This will allow you to graduate to cards with more flexibility and lucrative benefits.

Southwest Rapid Rewards® Premier Business Credit Card Review

Editorial disclosure: All reviews are prepared by Bankrate.com staff. Opinions expressed therein are solely those of the reviewer and have not been reviewed or approved by any advertiser. The information, including card rates and fees, presented in the review is accurate as of the date of the review. Check the data at the top of this page and the bank’s website for the most current information.

Bankrate.com is an independent, advertising-supported comparison service. The offers that appear on this site are from companies from which Bankrate.com receives compensation. This compensation may impact how and where products appear on this site, including, for example, the order in which they may appear within listing categories. Other factors, such as our own proprietary website rules and the likelihood of applicants' credit approval also impact how and where products appear on this site. Bankrate.com does not include the entire universe of available financial or credit offers.

This card offer is currently unavailable on Bankrate. To see more cards in this category, please visit our airline category page .

A FICO score/credit score is used to represent the creditworthiness of a person and may be one indicator to the credit type you are eligible for. However, credit score alone does not guarantee or imply approval for any financial product.

The Southwest Rapid Rewards® Premier Business Credit Card can help you earn rewards for everyday purchases and flying Southwest.

When you include the card’s generous welcome bonus and travel-specific perks, the Premier Business easily gives top business travel cards a run for their money.

Here are the details:

You’ll earn 2X points on Southwest® purchases and 1X points on all other purchases for a $99 annual fee.

There’s also a 60,000-point sign-up bonus when you spend $3,000 on purchases within your first three months. When you include your business’ everyday spending, the sign-up bonus could help you reach the 110,000 points required to earn the Southwest Companion Pass.

Employee cards are free and rewards earned on these cards will be deposited in the main cardholders account.

Is this card right for you?

The Premier Business card was made for business owners who frequently fly Southwest and/or are aiming for the airline’s companion pass.

If you’d rather earn more points on Southwest purchases or want to earn rewards for purchases related to running your business (think: advertising and Internet service), you may want to consider Southwest’s newest business card.

With the Southwest Rapid Rewards® Performance Business Credit Card, you’ll earn 3X points on Southwest Airlines®️ purchases, 2X points on social media and search engine advertising, Internet, cable and phone services and 1X points on all other purchases.

The Performance Business offers a stellar 80,000-point welcome bonus after spending $5,000 in your first three months from account opening, along with up to a $100 Global Entry or TSA Pre✓®️ Fee Credit. But with the added perks, you’ll pay a higher annual fee of $199 per year.

Overall, if you only fly Southwest Airlines occasionally, you’re probably better off with a business credit card that pays flexible rewards in the categories you typically spend.

Advantages
  • 60,000 bonus points when you spend $3,000 in your first three months from account opening
  • Get 6,000 bonus points after your cardmember anniversary
  • Check your first and second bag for free (weight and size limits apply)
  • $0 change fee (fare differences may apply)
  • No foreign transaction fees or blackout dates on travel
  • Unlimited reward seats to more than 100 destinations
Disadvantages
  • $99 annual fee
  • Southwest does not offer airline partners, so flights must be booked through the Southwest site
  • You can’t pay for flights with a combination of points and cash

How much are the rewards worth?

If you spent 5,000 a month on Southwest flights with your Premier Business card, you’d earn $1,200 worth of points by the end of your first year. Keep in mind the rewards earned from spending on employee cards funnels into your account.

That also means you’d earn 10,000 points a month, or 120,000 points for your first year of card membership. When you include the 6,000-point bonus you’ll receive after your cardmember anniversary, that’s 126,000 points earned in your first year ⁠— more than enough to qualify for Southwest’s Companion Pass.

How to use this card

The Premier Business comes with Visa Signature benefits, including auto and travel protections, insurance and hotel discounts and benefits at participating properties. It also provides extended warranty protection on qualifying purchases.

To redeem your points, simply visit Southwest.com and log into your Rapid Rewards account. When searching for your itinerary choose the “Points” option instead of Dollars. Select the fare you want and then check out using points to pay. Unfortunately, you cannot pay with a combination of points and cash.

Rapid Rewards cardmembers can also redeem their points for hotel stays, rental cars, gift cards, event tickets, merchandise, and other unique experiences. Our guide to Southwest Rapid Rewards goes into further detail about the program, including how to best utilize your points and how the benefits stack up against other frequent flyer offers.

The bottom line

The Premier Business can help you earn rewards for your business-related spending on Southwest flights.

Thanks to its hefty welcome bonus and 6,000-point bonus after each account anniversary, you can quickly accrue enough points for the coveted Southwest Companion Pass offer.

The information about the Southwest Rapid Rewards Performance Business Credit Card and the Southwest Rapid Rewards Premier Business Credit Card has been collected independently by Bankrate.com. The card details have not been reviewed or approved by the card issuer.

How to Pay for Relocation

a couple unpacking boxes

Hero Images/Getty Images

Moving is one of the most stressful life events you can endure — especially if you aren’t confident you can afford it. Whether you’re moving for a new job or personal reasons, there are a variety of factors that affect the cost and timeline of your move.

As a result of tax reform, Americans can no longer deduct moving expenses. So depending on how much help you get from your family, friends, or your new employer, the entire cost of the move might rest on your shoulder. Thankfully, there are a few quick, effective options to help ease the financial burden of embarking on a new adventure.

The repeal of the moving expense deduction

Under the previous law, taxpayers were allowed to deduct some of the costs of moving their goods and effects, plus certain travel expenses. But as of 2018, exclusion for qualified moving expense reimbursements and deductions are both suspended until 2025. The one exception is members of the military on active duty who move due to a military order.

The cost of moving

Consider this: The American Moving and Storage Association says that the average cost of an interstate household move costs about $4,300. That’s no small expense. Even moving within the state costs an average of $2,300.

Every move is unique, but here are six common expenses to help estimate what your move might cost:

  • Movers.

    Hiring movers is one of the most important expenses you’ll make — you get what you pay for.

    HomeAdvisor

    found that the average move costs around $800, but that can vary widely based on the location, travel, and amount of goods and personal items you need to transport.

  • Travel.

    Gas, lodging, and food can add up quickly. And if you’re flying, it’s easy for a small family to rack up over $1,000 for a one-way domestic flight. Travel to your new home the potential to be the biggest expense of all.

  • Boxes.

    Boxes can generally be obtained for free from grocery or department stores. If you need containers for transporting fragile items, remember that durable plastic tubs can cost more than $20 each depending on the size.

  • Storage.

    If your move takes longer than expected because a house closing is delayed, for example, you might have to put some of your belongings in storage. The cost of a self-storage unit varies widely and depends on the location. CostHelper.com says a self-storage unit that’s 10 feet by 20 feet typically ranges from $95 to $155 a month, and $170 to $180 if the unit is climate-controlled.

  • Replacements.

    Odds are, at least a few things will be broken during your move. Remember to set aside some money to cover replacements.

  • Deposits and fees.

    It’s possible that you may have to pay early termination fees for services like cable or utilities. You might even have to put down a deposit for services at your new place prior to your 

Instate vs out of state long distance moving costs

According to Homeadvisor, here are the average costs for local and interstate moves. Local moving is any move under 100 miles within the same state and interstate or long distance moving across the country or over state lines. 

Type of mover Average Charge Extra charges Local/Intrastate $80-$100 per hour +25-$50 extra per additional mover Interstate/Cross Country $2000-$5000 per load $0.50 per pound

Costs of moving based on house size

These are average costs for moving based on house size, according to HomeAdvisor. The chart is based on average hourly rates charged by local moving companies.  

Size of house Estimated time of move Average price range

1 bedroom apartment

3-5 hrs $200-$500 2 bedroom apartment 5-7 hrs $400-$700 3 bedroom house 7-10 hrs $560-$1,000 4 bedroom house 10+ hrs $800-$2,000+

How to pay for your relocation

Personal loans

It’s ideal to pay for your move upfront, but that’s not always possible. If you need to finance some or all of your move, applying for a personal loan is one of the best options to consider. Personal loans are either secured or unsecured loans that are paid off in equal installments (what’s known as installment debt), usually over two- to five-year terms. The monthly payments include both principal and interest.

The main benefit for using a personal loan for your move is the interest rate. Borrowers with excellent credit can score rates around 10 percent. Those with good credit fall in the 13 – 15 percent range. With a credit card, good credit could get you a rate around the lower 20s. Over the lifetime of a loan, just a few points can make a big difference in the amount of interest you’ll pay.

Personal loans can be obtained from banks, credit unions, and online lenders. The application process is usually easiest with online lenders, but overall they’re much quicker than other loans. Sometimes the approval process might just take a few days.

 Credit cards

A credit card (sometimes multiple cards) might seem like a good way to pay for your move quickly. You might even be thinking about the potential to earn rewards in the process. But it’s not always the best idea.

Credit cards offer revolving debt, which means that, unlike personal loans, you don’t have to re-apply for credit when you need more money. The downside to that, however, is a higher interest rate. A good credit score will get you a credit card with an APR around 18 percent to 20 percent, while a personal loan can be closer to 10 percent.

Personal loan

Monthly payment Details Term Interest Paid $98.22 11% APR 36 months $535.78

Credit card loan

Monthly payment Details Term Interest Paid $120

12-month 0% intro APR, then 21%

36 months $979.92

Credit card loan

Monthly payment Details Term Interest Paid $300

12-month 0% intro APR, then 21%

10 months $0

Let’s say you’ve crunched the numbers, and you expect your total expense to be $3,000. (That’s pretty conservative, even for an intrastate move.) And the largest monthly payment you can afford is around $100. A personal loan with an 11 percent APR and 3-year term will get you a monthly payment of $98.22. Over the life of the loan, you’ll pay around $536 in interest.

Most zero percent introductory credit card offers run from 12 to 18 months. So if you could afford to pay around $300 toward your balance every month, you could benefit from a credit card because you wouldn’t incur any interest. If not, a personal loan offers a lower payment and saves more than $400 over the life of your loan. Plus, you can’t be tempted to swipe a personal loan at the department store and add to your debt.

Here’s the bottom line: You should only use a credit card with a zero percent introductory interest rate offer for larger expenses, like relocation, when you can afford to pay several hundred dollars on your balance every month. (Ideally, you should pay it off completely before the 0% intro period ends.)

Don’t forget to ask about relocation assistance

If you’re relocating for work, don’t forget to ask about relocation assistance. It can be difficult to ask for help for fear of sounding demanding or greedy, but remember, the worst your employer can say is no.

 

Weighing the costs: Should you transfer a car loan to credit card?

Man reviewing his bills at a desk

It makes financial sense to seek the lowest interest rate possible when borrowing money, right? You might be tempted to transfer a car loan to a credit card if you get a zero percent introductory APR for a top rewards credit card.

If you qualify, you’ll get a lower interest rate, plus rewards you can redeem for a dream vacation, cash back, or even a statement credit.

But is transferring a car loan to a credit card a smart choice? The answer depends on several factors – starting with how you initiate the transfer.

How to transfer a car loan to a credit card

If you can transfer your car loan to a credit card and then pay in full, you’ll get the intro APR without any balance transfer fees.

But some loan issuers only permit payments via check, cash, ACH direct transfer or money order. In that case, you can use the balance transfer checks that came with your new credit card.

You can also do a balance transfer direct from your car loan company to your credit card issuer. You’ll need to provide your issuer with your loan account number, the address where you’d mail payments and the name of the loan company. If you’re used to making online payments, it’s a good idea to call your loan provider to confirm this information.

When you use a balance transfer check or initiate the transfer through your credit card issuer, you could pay balance transfer fees.

Before you make the transfer, get answers to these questions:

• Will the creditor that holds your car loan permit you to use a credit card to pay the loan balance?
• If you can’t use your credit card, can you use a balance transfer check to pay the balance?
• Are there any penalties for paying the car loan early?
• How much will you pay in balance transfer fees?
• How long does the intro APR last?

How to calculate the credit card interest rate

Before you decide to transfer your car loan to a credit card, calculate how much your new payments will be.

To calculate your monthly payments at zero percent interest, just divide the amount left on your loan with the terms of your intro APR offer. If you have to pay a balance transfer fee, add that to the loan amount.

If you owe $5,000 on your car, with a three percent balance transfer fee, add $150 to the $5,000. Then divide $5,150 by 18 months, for example, if those are the terms of your intro APR. You’d pay $287 per month, which is most likely lower than any car loan that doesn’t carry a zero percent APR.

If you intend to own your car for several years, extending your loan by nine months to free up working capital to pay down higher interest debt, put in a high interest savings account, or even pay for emergency expenses can be a wise choice.

The impact on your credit score

Your credit score could suffer if you exchange a secure installment loan for unsecured, revolving credit. If you don’t have other installment loans in your profile, you are reducing your credit diversity. And if putting the balance of your vehicle loan on your card brings you closer to your credit limit, you will also reduce your credit score due to high credit utilization.

These are significant factors that make up your credit score, so if you are looking to secure a mortgage or another car loan within the next year, transferring your car loan may not be a wise financial choice.

If you already have another installment loan in your credit profile and the balance transfer doesn’t approach 30 percent of the available credit on your card, the effect on your credit score will be minimal and you can move ahead with the transfer.

Otherwise, you may consider other options, such as refinancing your car loan.

Getting an auto loan vs. getting a credit card

If you have poor-to-average credit, it’s easier to get an auto loan than a credit card. Car dealers will often make deals with banks to extend credit to customers with credit scores of 640 and below. Even if you have declared bankruptcy, you can find a car loan – but the interest rates will be high.

Similarly, you can get a secured credit card with a low credit score. But the best zero percent interest APR rewards credit card offers are typically extended to those with a credit score of 720 and above.

If your credit score was below 720 at the time you purchased your vehicle, but you’ve since qualified for a zero percent APR credit card, your payments will be less than your car loan for the duration of the zero percent offer. You’ll save on interest charges, too.

Pros and cons of transferring a high interest car loan to a low interest credit card

Pros

• You could save hundreds of dollars in interest over the life of the loan.

• You may reduce your monthly payments.

• You can earn credit card rewards with the new charge or balance transfer.

• The loan company will release the lien on your car and sign the title over to you.

Cons

• Your credit score may drop due to taking on more revolving debt and increasing your credit utilization ratio.

• If you miss a payment on the credit card, your APR could skyrocket.

• If you can’t pay off the balance transfer or new charge during the introductory period, your interest rate may be higher than it was on your vehicle loan.

Bottom line

If you do choose to transfer your car loan to a credit card with a low introductory interest rate, be sure to have a good understanding of your credit card company’s policy for doing so, as well as the requirements to get the introductory rate with no penalties.

Best Student Credit Cards of 2019

Editorial disclosure: All reviews are prepared by Bankrate.com staff. Opinions expressed therein are solely those of the reviewer and have not been reviewed or approved by any advertiser. The information, including card rates and fees, presented in the review is accurate as of the date of the review. Check the data at the top of this page and the bank’s website for the most current information.

Author: Bankrate Staff

Have questions for our credit cards editors? Feel free to send us an email, find us on Facebook, or Tweet us @Bankrate.

What you need to know about student credit cards

It’s easy to dismiss student credit cards as having limited benefits, because they are reserved for people who are new to credit. In reality, they’re just as valuable as general rewards cards – but with some functionality specifically tailored to students’ credit-building interests. Here’s a deeper dive into our top picks for 2019 and insight on how you should be approaching credit as a student.

Table of contents:

How we chose the best student cards

There are a bunch of factors that power our proprietary Bankrate Score, but some credit card features are weighted more than others. The best student cards make it easy to build credit: They have no annual fee or penalty APR. Here’s a list of the top factors we used to evaluate and score student cards, in order of importance:

  • APR rates: Variable APR and penalty APR (the interest you pay if you miss a payment) can be high and compound quickly.
  • 0% Intro APR offer term length: A long period at 0% APR means that you can charge a large expense (such as a new laptop) to your credit card and pay it off over time without incurring interest.
  • Intro bonus and card perks: Great student cards should offer useful perks, like cash back on certain categories like gas and groceries.

Recap of our top picks for the best student cards for 2019 spring semester

Card Name Best for Discover it® Student chrome Gas, dining & large purchases Journey® Student Rewards from Capital One® Flat-rate cash back and studying abroad Discover it® Student Cash Back Rotating cash back bonus categories Citi Rewards+℠ Student Card For everyday spending Deserve® Edu Mastercard for Students Best for Amazon Prime membership Self Lender — Credit Builder Account Best for credit building

Deeper details on each of the best student credit cards

Discover it® Student Cash Back

This student card can produce an extremely lucrative first year of cash back for savvy spenders. Earn 5% cash back in rotating categories each quarter, such as gas stations, grocery stores and restaurants, up to the quarterly maximum each time you activate. Earn 1% unlimited cash back on all other purchases. Any student can benefit, since there’s no annual fee and a $20 reward for each year you maintain a 3.0 GPA up to the next 5 years. But those who don’t mind putting in a little strategy can really earn big. Maxing out the quarterly bonuses before the rewards rate drops from 5% to 1% will result in $75 in rewards each quarter.

Why recommend this card to other students?

This card is essentially the same as the Discover it® Cash Back. But students don’t have to worry about having a credit history to be approved. And Cashback Match, where Discover will automatically match all of your cash back earnings from your first year, is a great bonus.

Journey® Student Rewards from Capital One®

The Journey card has no annual fee and offers 1% cash back on all purchases, but you can boost that to 1.25% if you pay your bill off on time. That’s a pretty sweet deal for those who spend on school supplies and gas, while also being fairly new to building credit. On top of that, enjoy Eno®, your Capital One® assistant, to manage your account via text, receive alerts, and shop safer online.

Why recommend this card to other students?

Paying no foreign transaction fees on this card really sets it apart for student value. Take it abroad, pay your bill in full every month—your credit limit may even increase after 5 months of on time payments.

Discover it® Student chrome

Discover’s chrome card for students earns 2% cash back on up to $1,000 in purchases at gas stations and restaurants per quarter. For everything else, you’ll earn 1%. Although that may not seem like a huge rewards rate, keep in mind that if you’re a student looking to build credit, the roughly $20 in rewards you earn every quarter will be a pleasant surprise you can count on for as long as you’re using the card (and reaching the spend cap of $1,000 per quarter).

Why recommend this card to other students?

Similar to the Discover it Student Cash Back, this card is essentially identical to the Discover it® chrome, only you receive a good grades reward that stretches over 5 years. And your cash back earnings will automatically be matched at the end of your first year with the card.

Citi Rewards+ Student Card

With the Citi Rewards+ Student Card, you’ll receive 2 ThankYou® Points per dollar at supermarkets and gas stations (for the first $6,000 spent each year, then 1 point) and 1 ThankYou® Point per dollar on everything else. Enjoy paying zero percent APR for 7 months on new purchases (then 16.74% – 26.74% variable).

Why recommend this card to other students?

While this card does call for good/excellent credit, you get a 10-point round up on every purchase you make (meaning your $2 coffee can earn you 10 points rather than 1). One of the coolest perks of the card is its 10% Points Back feature – you’ll get 10% of your ThankYou® Points back on the first 100,000 points redeemed each year.

Other notable options for students looking to build credit:

Deserve® Edu Mastercard for Students

Students earn an unlimited 1% cash back on every purchase made with this card. Although that’s a modest rewards rate, it’s a nice benefit in the context of every other perk this card offers. Cardholders are eligible for up to $49 (lifetime total) for Amazon Prime Student, as well as ID theft protection, price protection, and other Mastercard Platinum benefits. It’s also another card without foreign transaction fees, so take it abroad with you.

Self Lender — Credit Builder Account

Self Lender’s Credit Builder Account is a unique offering in the student credit category. It doesn’t offer cash back or perks on category purchases, but instead offers help in securing a small loan to deposit in a Certificate of Deposit (CD) bank account. For college students in their second or third year especially, this is a huge asset when it comes to unlocking a nice fund upon graduation. Your loan will sit in the CD account for 12 or 24 months, and after that, you will be able to withdraw more than you initially put in.

What are student credit cards and how do they work?

It’s common for young people, especially college students with mounting loan debt, to be apprehensive about applying for credit cards. In fact, 47% of college students age 18-24 don’t have a credit card simply because they want to avoid debt as much as possible, according to research from Sallie Mae and Ipsos. With a better understanding of credit and how a student credit card can benefit you in the long run, you’ll see that if you are a good candidate, applying for a student credit card is a wise first step in long-term financial wellness.

Student credit cards provide you with a line of credit, usually $1,000 or less. When you use the card, money isn’t directly drawn from your bank account. Instead, the issuer (Capital One, Discover, etc.) pays for the expense and records the amount you charged. The total amount you owe to the issuer is called a balance.

If you pay off the balance in full and on time every month, you’ll never owe more than what you spent. Though, credit card issuers allow you to make small “minimum payments” and carry the rest of the balance month-to-month. When you carry a balance, you’ll have to pay interest on the total amount. Your interest rate is also known as the Annual Percentage Rate or APR. APRs vary across all credit cards, but with a student card, you can expect your rate to be 14-25%.

Why get a student credit card?

Some people start out using their parent’s cards as an authorized user, in order to ease into the credit world and kickstart a credit history. However, that’s not an option for everyone. Getting your own student credit card allows you to take a step toward financial independence. The best part is you don’t have to be a big spender. You can start by paying your rent or internet bill – or even buy next semester’s books.

Here are some good use-cases for your student card:

Build good habits

Using your credit card to buy a meal or your morning coffee throughout the week will get you in the habit of using your credit card regularly, paying your bill on time and accruing rewards.

Grab perks for making larger purchases

Charging larger expenses to your credit card, such as flights for a spring break vacation, can be a great way to earn travel rewards and benefit from some of the perks (such as rental car collision insurance and lost luggage insurance). These benefits are great, so long as you have the income to pay your bill. Incurring interest will vastly negate the travel rewards or cash back you would earn by using your card.

Cushion for emergencies

A credit card can be a great resource in your wallet in the case of emergencies. It’s good to establish clear boundaries for what constitutes an emergency and what doesn’t. (No, the late night pizza craving isn’t an emergency.) If your car breaks down, you need a hotel room after your flight gets canceled or you need to pay a medical bill after a trip to the ER – your student card can be a much needed cushion. Just make sure to pay your bill before you begin incurring interest.

Credit card terms students should know

  • Annual Percentage Rate (APR): Interest rate paid on balances carried from one billing period (month) to the next.
  • Penalty APR: The highest APR that will be applied to your account. Penalty APR is usually applied after you miss consecutive payments. To return to your original APR, you’ll need to make 6 consecutive on-time payments.
  • Credit Utilization Ratio: This ratio is a measurement of how much of your available credit you are using. If you have a $5,000 credit limit and usually stick to a $500 per month budget, your ratio is at 10%. The lower your ratio is, the better. If you use up a large chunk (or all) of your available credit every month, your credit score may decrease.
  • Annual fees: Some credit cards have annual fees of $50 or more, though most student cards do not. Be sure to check for fees before applying for any card.
  • Credit bureau: Research entities that compile all of your credit history reporting to generate your credit score. In the US, there are 3 major bureaus—Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion.
  • FICO: The entity that creates the scoring model used to create credit scores. FICO credit scores range from 300 to 850, with 850 being the best. Credit scores are one factor in determining your creditworthiness.

How students can avoid getting into credit card debt

If you’re spending time gathering information on credit cards for college students, you’re already using the first good strategy for avoiding credit card debt:

      1. Do your research. Credit cards have a lot of terms and conditions. It’s wise to understand exactly what kind of card you need and find a card that best meets those needs. If you don’t own a car and you rarely dine out, it’s probably not in your best interest to apply for a rewards card that offers cash back on gas and dining purchases.
      2. Pay off your balance in full every month. It may seem obvious, but the only way to avoid paying more than you have to is by paying in full every month. Some credit cards will let you choose your own due date, others will establish one for you. Make sure you note when your credit card bill is due and stick to your payment schedule.
      3. Exercise caution when paying tuition with your credit card. It’s best to not use your credit card to pay for tuition, but some schools will allow you to do so. However, be aware that you’ll be charged a convenience fee of about 3% that’s added to your bill. You risk getting into credit card debt when these extra charges affect your everyday spending and eventually dismantle your budget.
      4. Look for introductory offers. If you absolutely need to make a larger purchase, and you carry a balance, look for a student card with a 0% introductory APR. Some cards have zero percent APR for the first several months. During that time, you can make one large purchase and gradually pay it off without any interest.
      5. Use your card for everyday convenience. Don’t just focus on the big purchases. Use your card to pay for food, utility bills, movie tickets, and other small purchases. Having a credit card is incredibly convenient and a positive thing when you use it properly.

Expenses for college students obviously go far beyond tuition. The College Board reports that the average on-campus student at a public, four-year, in-state university spent $1,250 on books and supplies in 2017-18. With the aid of a student credit card, the burden of those secondary expenses can be lessened and fit within a budget and schedule that works for you.

Steps to applying for a student credit card

The first thing to consider before applying for a student credit card is your credit history. Start by answering the following questions:

      • Have you ever had a credit card?
      • Have you ever taken out a loan?
      • Do you have a steady work/income history?

If you have never had a credit card and you currently have no loans or steady income, your best option for getting your own credit card account is to become an authorized user on a pre-existing account. An authorized user is in a good position to benefit from the cardholder’s (usually parents) habits, while not having to carry the responsibilities of paying the card balance.

If you already have a credit history, it’s important to know what your score is. Determining your credit score will let you know which cards you are likely to be approved for. Every time you apply for a credit card, your score will briefly drop by about 5 points, so it’s best to do it as few times as possible. Applying for cards you are declined for will still negatively affect your score.

First, request copies of your credit report, which you can do for free once a year from each of the three credit bureaus. You can also get a free credit report and credit score here.

Also, consider the following:

      • Credit cards usually have foreign transaction fees. If you plan on studying abroad, take a look at foreign transaction fees, which can vary from 2-4%.
      • You should only apply for one card. Applying for several cards at once indicates risk and tells credit card issuers that you are desperate for credit. Do your research and stick to one application. If you’re denied, take steps to improve your credit (pay down other cards, loans, etc.) and apply for another card in a few months.

Once you have pulled your credit report, checked your credit score, and narrowed your search to one perfect card, you’re ready to apply.

Additional reviews and research

Need to do more reading before you make a decision? No worries, choosing the right credit card as a college student is a big deal. We’ve reviewed pretty much every major student credit card on the market today, with all the latest offer information and in-depth analysis. Check out all of our latest reviews below.