Showing posts with label interest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label interest. Show all posts

Sunday, August 4, 2019

When It's A Good Idea To Refinance Your Mortgage

White livingroom

Homeowners who are considering refinancing their mortgages have one advantage to count on – interest rates remain low.

Refinancing from a 30-year or adjustable rate mortgage (ARM) to a lower rate can help consumers save money each month and cut the total amount that goes towards interest payments.

Here’s how to determine whether you will benefit by refinancing your mortgage. 

Here are the two major types of refinances:

1. Rate-and-term refinancing to save money. The majority of homeowners refinance the rest of the balance on their mortgage for a lower interest rate and an affordable loan term. (The loan term is the number of years it will take to repay the loan such as 15 or 30 years.)

2. Cash-out refinancing where you obtain a new mortgage for more than what you owe. The difference is often used to pay for renovations or to retire credit card debt.

Other reasons consumers refinance include to replace an adjustable-rate mortgage with a fixed-rate loan, eliminate FHA mortgage insurance or to settle a divorce.

Some consumers refinance to lower their monthly payment and have more money each month for bills, groceries or an auto loan.

“If a borrower is refinancing strictly to lower monthly mortgage payments and closing costs are $2,400, the borrower should expect to save at least this amount in interest payments for the duration they plan to have the loan,” says Richard Liu, a mortgage consultant for C2 Financial Corp., a San Diego-based mortgage brokerage.

Check today’s low rates on a mortgage refinance.

Determine how long it will take to break even

Mortgage closing costs add up to thousands of dollars. To decide whether a refinance makes sense, calculate the break-even point, which is the time it will take for the cost of the mortgage refinance to pay for itself.

“If you can shave one-half to three-quarters of a percentage point off your mortgage loan by refinancing, you should look into it,” says Greg McBride, CFA, chief financial analyst for Bankrate. “Just be sure the cumulative savings on monthly payments is enough to offset the costs of refinancing. If you’re planning on moving in the next year or two, it might not.”

Break-even point example

Break-even point = Total closing costs ÷ monthly savings

Example:

30 months to break even = $3,000 in closing costs ÷ $100 a month in savings

If you plan to keep the house for less than the break-even time, you probably should stay in your current mortgage.

Mind the term in rate-and-term

The formula above doesn’t measure your total savings over the life of the new mortgage. A refinance can cost more money in the long run if you start your new loan with a 30-year term.

Example:

Kris has been paying $998 a month for 10 years. If Kris doesn’t refinance, the payments will total $239,520 over the next 20 years.

With a refinance, Kris could pay $697 a month to repay the new loan in 30 years, or $885 a month to pay it off in 20 years.

$697 x 360 months = $250,920

$885 x 240 months = $212,400

In the example above, Kris borrowed $186,000 at 5 percent. 10 years later, Kris had a remaining balance of $146,000, and refinanced at 4 percent.

Use Bankrate’s mortgage calculator to compare your own loan scenarios:

  • See what happens when you input different mortgage terms (in years or months).
  • Reveal the amortization schedule to see how much total interest you would pay.

Good credit can save you lots of money on your mortgage. Check your credit score for free at myBankrate.

Pros and cons of cash-out refinances

Cash-out refinances often are used to pay down debt. They have pros and cons.

Imagine that you use a cash-out refinance to pay off credit card debt. On the pro side, you’re reducing the interest rate on the credit card debt. On the con side, you may pay thousands more in interest because you’re taking up to 30 years to pay off the balance you transferred from your credit cards to your mortgage.

But the biggest risk in this scenario is in converting an unsecured debt into a secured debt. Miss your credit card payments, and you get nasty calls from debt collectors and a lower credit score.

Miss mortgage payments, and you can lose your home to foreclosure. Home equity debt that’s added to the refinanced mortgage always was secured debt.

How to create a passive income stream

If you’re worried your salary is not enough to help you save a deposit for your first property or prepare you for retirement, building wealth through passive income is a strategy that might appeal to you.

What is passive income?

Passive income is a source of revenue that continues even after the work is complete, for example, royalties from a book or film.

We’re not suggesting you go out and write a book (not very passive) or make a blockbuster movie (not very savvy), but some of the below options do require a little effort in the beginning to then pay you in the long-term without you needing to lift another finger.

What we’ve tried to highlight here is how to make your money (that you’ve already earned) make more money (without you having to do much), so they do rely on you having some initial capital already behind you.

Some of these strategies involve an element of risk. If you are not fully comfortable with that, it might be more advisable to go down the slightly more labour intensive route of selling your stuff on eBay, setting up a side business or writing that bestseller after all.

What ways can I earn a passive income?

Here are eight strategies for creating a passive income stream:

    1. Switch your bank account
    2. Earn interest on savings
    3. Use a cashback or rewards credit card
    4. Buy via cashback websites
    5. Try out robo-investing
    6. Rent out a room (or parking space)
    7. Invest with peer-to-peer lending
    8. Purchase dividend-yielding stocks

1. Switch your bank account

Loyalty to your bank is a thing of the past, and banks know it. That’s why so many offer cash switching incentives (the current highest is £200 from HSBC) for current accounts, many of which link with savings accounts, some with interest as high as 5%.

Not all banks are part of the switching scheme, but those that are guarantee all direct debits and standing orders are transferred to your new account within seven days.

If they fail to do this and you wind up with a late payment charge from your old account, your new bank should cover it.

Most bank accounts have a minimum pay-in and a two direct debits requirement – make sure you meet them to reap the full benefits of the switching rewards.

Some charge a monthly fee, so watch out for that when you switch over as you do not want to pay out more than you earn.

2. Earn interest on savings

In today’s low interest climate, the best rates on savings are often reserved for fixed-rate accounts or bonds. These are savings accounts that lock away your money for a set period of time. Generally speaking, the longer it’s locked away, the higher the rate.

Only use these if you are comfortable with not having access to your money. If you suddenly realise you need it before the bond is up, you will most likely have to pay an early withdrawal fee.

One way to avoid this is to get a current account with a high interest rate as we mentioned above.

Today, the best returns on savings are from Lifetime and Help to Buy ISAs where the government pays you a 25% bonus on your funds. The Help to Buy ISA pays this on withdrawal, whereas the Lifetime ISA pays in the bonus annually.

3. Use a cashback or rewards credit card

If you are going to spend on a credit card anyway (which you may need to do to build up your credit history), you might as well get one that gives you cash bonuses to do so.

There are a few cards out there that offer cashback or that operate reward schemes that could give you discounts in certain stores or earn you air miles.

However, always approach credit cards with caution – they are a debt product after all. If you do not think you will be able to pay it back in full every month, your interest repayments will very quickly outpace any cashback or rewards.

4. Buy via cashback websites

Cashback websites are essentially third party portals that you visit before clicking through to a website from which you were already going to buy something.

Using the cashback site’s link rewards them with money, some of which they pass on to you. How much you could get is usually shown as a percentage of the total amount you spend, but you are not always guaranteed to get that amount.

Like with a cashback credit card, only use a cashback site if you were planning to spend that money anyway – that way, you really could be getting something for nothing.

5. Try out robo-investing

Robo-investing is one of the slightly riskier ways to make a passive income, especially as you cannot specify where your funds get invested.

Unlike with traditional savings accounts where your money just sits there earning (or not earning much) interest, here it gets invested so you could reap bigger financial rewards. Remember, you could also experience a loss, so proceed with caution.

Robo-investing, open banking apps like Moneybox round up your spending and invest the difference.

For example, if you bought something costing £2.80, Moneybox rounds it up to £3 and invests the spare 20p. You can pick from three levels of risk: cautious, balanced, or adventurous.

The idea is, the amounts are so nominal you do not notice them not being there – it’s like putting your spare change in a piggy bank rather than having it jangle around in your pocket.

However, if you are someone who likes to keep an eye on every penny, this may not be the best way for you to earn a passive income.

6. Rent out a room (or parking space)

Buying and then renting out an entire property is a good way to earn a passive income, but it’s an expensive one and requires a lot of work.

For starters, you’ll have to pay an extra 3% in stamp duty (if it’s your second home, otherwise you pay the normal stamp duty rates), need a 25% deposit and – if you’ve already exceeded the tax-free income threshold (£12,500 in 2019/2020) – you’ll have to pay income tax on any earnings.

However, if you have a spare room in your current property or have an empty parking space in an area where parking is an absolute premium, you can rent it out.

Again, this is something you will need to report to the tax man, but if you are not using the space, it could be a great way to earn passive income.

7. Invest with peer-to-peer lending

Peer-to-peer (P2P) lending consists of a personal loan made between you and a borrower, facilitated through a third-party intermediary such as Zopa or Funding Circle.

As a lender, you earn income via interest payments made on the loans. But because the loan is unsecured, you face the risk of the borrower defaulting on payments.

To minimise that risk, you should do two things:

  • Diversify your lending portfolio by investing smaller amounts over multiple loans
  • Analyse the historical data on the borrowers to make informed picks

It takes time to master the metrics of P2P lending, so it’s not entirely passive and because you’re investing in multiple loans, you’ll need to pay close attention to payments received.

Whatever you make in interest should be reinvested if you want to build income.

8. Purchase dividend-yielding stocks

A dividend is a sum of money paid to shareholders out of a company’s profits. Shareholders in companies with dividend-yielding stocks receive payments at regular intervals from the company.

Since the income from the stocks is not related to any activity other than the initial financial investment, owning dividend-yielding stocks can be one of the most passive forms of making money.

The tricky part is choosing the right stocks. To try and minimise loss, thoroughly investigate the company you’re thinking of investing in. Do not rush into anything!

If you are unsure of what to do, it might be worth speaking to a financial advisor. They will explain the risks meaning you can make an informed decision about the best course of action.

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Last updated: 18 April, 2019

How Brexit will affect your finances

In less than a year from now – on March 29, 2019 to be precise – the UK is scheduled to leave the European Union.

Although much of the political debate has been over the rights of citizens to move within Europe and the pros and cons of the Single Market, Brexit will also have an affect on our everyday finances.

Here we look at how this might affect savings, business and credit cards in the UK.

Interest rates

On May 10, the Bank of England announced it was not changing interest rates, which would stay at 0.5%, amid fears that the UK economy was too fragile to cope with a rate rise.

This is good news for borrowers, including those people with credit card debt and mortgages, but bad news for savers. Consumer price inflation is currently at 2.5%, which means that the real purchasing value of savings is being eroded.

Fitch, the ratings agency, said the household savings ratio (relative to income) was now 4.9%, a historical low. It forecasts that the UK base interest rate will rise gradually to reach 1.25% by the end of 2019.

“The impact of the Brexit referendum on real wages may be fading, but Brexit uncertainty creates risks of a bigger shock to growth and employment,” it says in a Special Report “Weakening UK Household Finances Pose Risks” published on May 8.

Foreign exchange rates

The value of your holiday pound, and the exchange rate you get when you use your credit card to spend abroad, are affected by foreign exchange (forex) fluctuations.

As of May 2018, sterling is worth just over 1.13 euros, compared with May 2016, when it was worth 1.3 euros, and July 2015 when it reached a ten-year peak of 1.44. Since July 2016 it has traded within a range of 1.08 to 1.12 and has recovered from its low of 1.07 soon after the Brexit result.

GBP vs. EUR for the last five years

Xe.com

When you make overseas purchases using your credit card or debit card, your provider applies a foreign currency conversion rate. This rate will be affected by the variations in the value of the pound, and any volatility in exchange rates.

If the Brexit talks look as though the UK is failing to secure a good deal, sterling may fall again. The Bank of England may have to raise interest rates to protect the pound.

Angus Dent, CEO of ArchOver, a peer to peer lender, said: “With Britain’s GDP growth at just 0.1%, it’s no surprise that the Bank of England has kept interest rates at 0.5%. [The] decision is yet another result of the uncertainty surrounding the UK’s financial health. And keeping rates so low means savers lose out once again.”

Credit card rates and rewards

While interest rates remain low, credit card companies are unlikely to increase their own interest rates. However, the era of rewards and benefits for holding a card seems to be at an end, says Andrew Hagger, founder of MoneyComms, the money information service.

“The only decent rewards you get now is if you use a card to buy items within a certain store – for example using a Tesco card to shop instore. If you use the Tesco card, or ones from M&S, John Lewis and Sainsbury’s outside their own shops, the rewards are slim. I don’t see any major changes in the pipeline.”

Credit card fees

Until the Brexit deal is finalised, the government in the UK has to comply with EU directives. After Brexit, all existing European law will be incorporated into UK law.

This includes a ban on credit and debit card surcharges and applies to all purchases made within the European Economic Area (EEA). It means airlines can’t add hidden charges for online bookings. There are unlikely to be any changes in the short term, as Teresa May has heralded this move as a victory for consumers.

Savings compensation

If you have savings with a bank or financial institution that goes bust, you’ll be compensated by the UK’s Financial Services Compensation Scheme (FSCS).

The compensation limit is £85,000, equivalent to the €100,000 deposit protection limit in the EU. Similar terms are likely to be included in UK law when the changeover happens. Read more about compensation limits on the FSCS website.

Interchange fees

The EU put in place a 0.3% cap on credit card interchange fees that was aimed at reducing the cost of card payments. The UK Cards Association estimated that almost £900 million in savings should be passed onto consumers.

Interchange is a fee paid by the retailer’s card acceptance provider to the consumer’s card issuer each time a card payment transaction occurs.

The cap on fees applies on most product types within the European Economic Area (EEA).

This will become law in the UK after Brexit, and is unlikely to change, says Andrew Hagger, of MoneyComms.

“All the EU laws will be incorporated into English law and then the government will look at which ones need to be changed. Interchange fees aren’t going to be a priority as there are many other issues they will need to look at, so I anticipate things staying much as they are for several years at least.”

Business and the economy

There are still some concerns about the health of the economy, which is why the Bank of England decided not to increase interest rates this time.

Brian Johnson, Insolvency Partner with the accountant HW Fisher, said that the economy had been affected by concerns over Brexit, and would continue to do so while the uncertainty remained.

“Immediately after the Referendum there was doom and gloom, and then the stockmarket recovered and the pound came down which made exports cheaper and interest rates stayed low,” he said. “That was a false dawn, with people saying that Brexit was not a problem.”

Behind the scenes, businesses were delaying decisions on investment and recruitment until the negotiations were concluded, he said, and there would be more insolvencies among businesses. This was not necessarily a bad thing, as poorly-run companies would be taken over by more efficient managers.

Now read: How to find the best current account

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Last updated: 28 January, 2019

How Much Can I Borrow? Mortgage Affordability Calculator

Use our how much can I borrow calculator to work out how much you can borrow in the UK as a first time buyer, moving home or remortgager, even with no deposit or bad credit. Explore our guide to learn how much you can afford based on your financial situation. Plus, understand how lenders assess your affordability and decide how much you can borrow in the UK.

How much mortgage can I get?

How much you can borrow for a mortgage in the UK is generally a maximum of 5 times your income - or 5 times your joint income, if you're applying for a mortgage with someone else.

Use the how much can I borrow mortgage affordability calculator above for an estimation on how big a mortgage you can get in the UK.

Mortgage lenders always conduct affordability checks before loaning you any money to ensure you can meet the monthly repayments. Since the 2008 financial crash, mortgage lenders are far more strict about who they lend to. They judge your affordability based on an in depth discovery of your income, all your outgoings and your total debt. They also scrutinise your credit file.

Lenders also want to know you could afford the repayments should the interest rates increase by 4% above the Bank of England base rate. This is known as stress testing.

You may only be able to get the maximum amount if you already have a current account with the lender, or you have a very large deposit.

To get a more accurate maximum mortgage figure, apply for an agreement in principle (AIP). An AIP is not the same as a formal mortgage offer. It is a theoretical figure of what a lender may be willing to lend you.

Most estate agents will not take an offer seriously without an AIP. You can secure one quickly online or via a mortgage broker.

How much mortgage can I afford?

How much mortgage you can borrow and how much mortgage you can afford are slightly different. Before you borrow the maximum amount, you should think about whether you can afford the monthly repayments on a large mortgage.

A general rule of thumb is that you don't want to spend more than 30% of your take home salary on mortgage repayments. Any more than that and you risk being "house poor" - where you own a house, but lack the money to do other important things (like build up your savings, go on holiday, etc.)

In London, where house prices are very high, it can be hard to keep your repayments under 30% of your income.

Before getting a mortgage, you really should do the maths on what the total cost of home ownership. If your mortgage payments and household bills look like they will take up 40 or 50% of your income, you should consider getting a smaller mortgage.

How much mortgage can I get with bad credit?

If you have bad credit you may still be able to get a mortgage, but it will be harder to find a lender willing to give you a loan.

You will likely need a larger deposit if you have a history of bad credit, and the best mortgage rates won't be available to you.

Generally the best way to find a bad credit mortgage is to talk to a mortgage broker.

How much deposit do I need to get a mortgage?

In most cases, you will need a minimum of a 5% deposit to secure a mortgage, meaning you’ll need a 95% mortgage loan. The size of the loan versus the property value is referred to as loan-to-value ratio, or LTV.

If you are able to save more, for instance a 10, 15 or 20% deposit, you’ll increase your chances of being accepted for cheaper mortgage products. Lower interest rates (and small set-up fees) equal cheaper mortgages.

The cheapest mortgages are generally only available if you have a big deposit, or – if you’re remortgaging or moving house – a large amount of equity in your property.

How much can I borrow with no deposit?

If you have no deposit - otherwise known as 100% LTV - you can still get a mortgage, but your options will be much more limited than if you had a deposit of 5, 10 or 15%.

No-deposit mortgages generally have a much higher interest rate, which means you'll pay a lot more in interest over the long term.

While 100% LTV mortgages are available for first-time buyers, you can find better and cheaper products if you can save up a deposit of at least 10%.

How do lenders assess my affordability?

Most AIPs only require a soft search on your credit file, which means other lenders will not see it. A real mortgage application will leave a mark on your file that all other lenders will be able to see. Generally, having more marks can count against you because it could suggest you are desperate for credit. Being turned down for a loan product will have a negative impact on your credit file.

Mortgage lenders will review your credit file in depth to make absolutely sure you could afford the monthly repayments of the mortgage you’ve applied for. Each lender has their own scoring system – it does not see the score you do, that’s just for you – and may check one or more of your credit files (from Experian, Equifax or TransUnion), so it is vital you check all three before you apply for a mortgage.

Lenders want to know how stable an investment you are by looking at how long you’ve been in a job, lived at your current address and had a bank account.

Income vs. outgoings

On application, mortgage lenders will look at your salary, guaranteed bonuses, pension, investments and any other income you have. You’ll need to prove your income with payslips and bank statements. If you are self-employed, there are some additional hoops to jump through (see below for more details).

Lenders will also closely examine your outgoings. More than just your rent (or current mortgage repayments if you’re remortgaging), which is likely your biggest monthly expense, they’ll look at other regular bills (credit cards, mobile phone, broadband, utilities) as well as your living expenses.

If you are down to £0 the day before pay day, or worse still, you’re in your overdraft, and your bank statements show you eat at restaurants four times a week, you could find it very hard to get a mortgage as it will look like you cannot manage your money.

For that reason, it’s worth trying to get your finances in order at least six months before you apply for a mortgage.

“Stress testing”

You might be able to afford the monthly payments if you secure a mortgage with a low interest rate, but what would happen if rates increased to 3% above the lender’s standard variable rate (SVR)? The average SVR today is 5.11% – so you would be stress-tested on an interest rate of around 8%. This is known as “stress testing”.

Could you afford the repayments should your personal circumstances change? That is not just what a lender considers, but something you will need to ask yourself too.

Having enough savings to cover three months of mortgage payments could really be worth your while in case your circumstances change – for instance, if you lose your current job.

Lenders may limit the amount you can borrow based on their findings.

Should I borrow the maximum amount?

It can be tempting to borrow your maximum mortgage amount and buy the most expensive property you can afford – but that may not be the right thing to do as it leaves you little wiggle room if rates go up or your income goes down…or both!

To begin with, one of the easiest ways to lower your monthly repayments is to borrow less money, giving you a lower LTV. If you have £20,000 as a deposit, that’s only 5% of a £400,000 property, but 10% of a cheaper £200,000 property.

The other thing to consider is that mortgage products are usually arranged in a tiered fashion, with a lower interest rate offered every time your LTV goes down by 5%. So, 95% LTV mortgages generally have higher interest rates than 90% LTV mortgages, which have higher rates than 85% LTV mortgages and so on.

If you’re looking at buying a property and your LTV would be 87%, you might consider raising a slightly larger deposit to push yourself over the 85% LTV threshold, otherwise you’d be stuck at 90%. Likewise, it might be worth looking at a slightly cheaper property, where the same size deposit would provide a better LTV and allow you to keep some money aside.

Borrowing the maximum amount possible could leave you “house poor” – where you own a house, but you have no funds left to pay for everyday stuff without going into debt.

How can I drop my LTV band if I’m remortgaging?

If you’re remortgaging your home, the exact same rule of thumb applies – you want to aim for the lowest LTV possible – but instead of raising a big deposit you get to use the equity in your home.

For example: you raised a deposit of £40,000 and borrowed £360,000 to buy a home valued at £400,000 (an LTV of 90%). Now the five-year fixed-rate deal deal has ended, you want to remortgage to a new fixed-rate mortgage. You’ve since paid off £40,000 from the principal debt – so you owe the lender £320,000 – and your home has gone up in value to £420,000.

Assuming you want to get a new mortgage for the same amount – £320,000, with £100,000 in equity – you would have an LTV of just 76%.

However, a 76% LTV mortgage will most likely have the same rates as an 80% LTV mortgage. To drop to a 75% LTV (and therefore lower the interest rates) you would need to add £5,000. Alternatively, you could try and get a slightly higher valuation for your home, which would help you drop to a 75% LTV.

If you’re remortgaging to unlock money for home improvements or other expenses, try to keep your LTV tier in mind. If you can stay within a lower LTV tier, perhaps by borrowing slightly less, you’ll save a lot more in interest repayments in the long-term.

How much mortgage can I get if I’m self-employed?

First things first, you can still get a mortgage if you are self-employed, you’ll just have a few more hoops to jump through than if you were a full-time employee.

Lenders will consider you more of a risk, so you will need to gather together at least two complete tax-years of business accounts and tax returns. Some lenders require that the documentation has been signed by a chartered accountant to prove that the information you’ve provided is reliable.

Your maximum mortgage will then be based on your net profit, not total turnover. The exact calculation will vary from lender to lender, and also on your legal status – self-employed is different from the sole director of a limited company, for example.

Some lenders may base your maximum mortgage on your past trading history, while others might want projections of future customers and income. Organise both, just in case.

If you’re self-employed, speaking to a mortgage broker is pretty much a must. They will know which lenders will most likely accept you, therefore cut the chance of a credit score-damaging rejection.

Edited by: Sarah Guershon. Mortgage calculator updated to version 1.11 on July 25, 2019.

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Last updated: 2 August, 2019

Post-Fed rate cut: Here’s how credit cards are affected

The Federal Reserve has announced its plan to cut rates, meaning cardholders across the country might experience slightly lower interest rates from their credit card issuers.

At the July 2019 Federal Open Market Committee (FOMC) meeting, the Fed voted to cut interest rates by 25 basis points — a relatively small decrease — with the intention of slightly boosting the economy in case of economic downturn.

Fed Chairman Jerome Powell has been hinting at a rate cut for the past few months. With risks to the economic outlook arising, the Fed hopes the cut will preemptively reinvigorate the economy.

The meeting in summary

“[The cut] is intended to ensure against downside risks from weak global growth and trade policy uncertainty; to help offset the effects these factors are currently having on the economy; and to promote a faster return of inflation to our symmetric 2 percent objective,” Powell said at the July 31 meeting.

The chairman also clarified his previous statements, confirming that the boost would not mean a series of further cuts.

“We’re thinking of it essentially as a mid-cycle adjustment to policy,” said Powell. “I’m contrasting it there with the beginning…of a lengthy cutting cycle. That’s not what we’re seeing now. That’s not our perspective now, or outlook.”

What this means for credit cards

The federal funds rate, determined by the Federal Reserve, typically affects the prime rate — or the interest rate banks charge customers with the highest credit ratings. This chain reaction, in turn, continues as the primate rate affects credit card interest rates.

As long as you’re paying your balance in full every month, you likely won’t see an impact from the increase or decrease of rates. But if you have credit card debt or are planning a large purchase in the coming weeks, the lowering of rates can make paying off debt a tad cheaper.

“While credit cards are affected directly by the prime rate, most consumers will feel a minimal impact with this cut,” says Mike Kinane, head of U.S. Bankcards at TD Bank. “We’ve had nine consecutive rate increases since 2008, so one .25 percent decrease won’t result in a dramatic change to a customer’s monthly credit card bill.”

Pay off debt now, not later

With the Fed rate cut, now is the time to pay off your credit card debt. Consider balance transfer card options that can help you consolidate and pay off your debt within an introductory zero percent APR window.

For example, the no annual fee Capital One® SavorOne℠ Cash Rewards Credit Card offers an introductory zero percent APR for 15 months on purchases and balance transfers (16.24% – 26.24% variable APR thereafter). You can transfer your debt to the SavorOne — for a 3 percent balance transfer fee — and pay it off over the course of 15 months while not owing anything in interest.

After your debt is paid off, you’ll still find value in the card’s unlimited 3 percent cash back on dining and entertainment, 2 percent at grocery stores and 1 percent on all other purchases.

The bottom line

The Fed’s rate cut may only marginally impact your cards’ interest rates, but it’s still a good idea to jumpstart your debt payoff as soon as possible.

Learn more about how to start budgeting, paying off your debts and choosing the right cards for your lifestyle here.

How to Pay for Relocation

a couple unpacking boxes

Hero Images/Getty Images

Moving is one of the most stressful life events you can endure — especially if you aren’t confident you can afford it. Whether you’re moving for a new job or personal reasons, there are a variety of factors that affect the cost and timeline of your move.

As a result of tax reform, Americans can no longer deduct moving expenses. So depending on how much help you get from your family, friends, or your new employer, the entire cost of the move might rest on your shoulder. Thankfully, there are a few quick, effective options to help ease the financial burden of embarking on a new adventure.

The repeal of the moving expense deduction

Under the previous law, taxpayers were allowed to deduct some of the costs of moving their goods and effects, plus certain travel expenses. But as of 2018, exclusion for qualified moving expense reimbursements and deductions are both suspended until 2025. The one exception is members of the military on active duty who move due to a military order.

The cost of moving

Consider this: The American Moving and Storage Association says that the average cost of an interstate household move costs about $4,300. That’s no small expense. Even moving within the state costs an average of $2,300.

Every move is unique, but here are six common expenses to help estimate what your move might cost:

  • Movers.

    Hiring movers is one of the most important expenses you’ll make — you get what you pay for.

    HomeAdvisor

    found that the average move costs around $800, but that can vary widely based on the location, travel, and amount of goods and personal items you need to transport.

  • Travel.

    Gas, lodging, and food can add up quickly. And if you’re flying, it’s easy for a small family to rack up over $1,000 for a one-way domestic flight. Travel to your new home the potential to be the biggest expense of all.

  • Boxes.

    Boxes can generally be obtained for free from grocery or department stores. If you need containers for transporting fragile items, remember that durable plastic tubs can cost more than $20 each depending on the size.

  • Storage.

    If your move takes longer than expected because a house closing is delayed, for example, you might have to put some of your belongings in storage. The cost of a self-storage unit varies widely and depends on the location. CostHelper.com says a self-storage unit that’s 10 feet by 20 feet typically ranges from $95 to $155 a month, and $170 to $180 if the unit is climate-controlled.

  • Replacements.

    Odds are, at least a few things will be broken during your move. Remember to set aside some money to cover replacements.

  • Deposits and fees.

    It’s possible that you may have to pay early termination fees for services like cable or utilities. You might even have to put down a deposit for services at your new place prior to your 

Instate vs out of state long distance moving costs

According to Homeadvisor, here are the average costs for local and interstate moves. Local moving is any move under 100 miles within the same state and interstate or long distance moving across the country or over state lines. 

Type of mover Average Charge Extra charges Local/Intrastate $80-$100 per hour +25-$50 extra per additional mover Interstate/Cross Country $2000-$5000 per load $0.50 per pound

Costs of moving based on house size

These are average costs for moving based on house size, according to HomeAdvisor. The chart is based on average hourly rates charged by local moving companies.  

Size of house Estimated time of move Average price range

1 bedroom apartment

3-5 hrs $200-$500 2 bedroom apartment 5-7 hrs $400-$700 3 bedroom house 7-10 hrs $560-$1,000 4 bedroom house 10+ hrs $800-$2,000+

How to pay for your relocation

Personal loans

It’s ideal to pay for your move upfront, but that’s not always possible. If you need to finance some or all of your move, applying for a personal loan is one of the best options to consider. Personal loans are either secured or unsecured loans that are paid off in equal installments (what’s known as installment debt), usually over two- to five-year terms. The monthly payments include both principal and interest.

The main benefit for using a personal loan for your move is the interest rate. Borrowers with excellent credit can score rates around 10 percent. Those with good credit fall in the 13 – 15 percent range. With a credit card, good credit could get you a rate around the lower 20s. Over the lifetime of a loan, just a few points can make a big difference in the amount of interest you’ll pay.

Personal loans can be obtained from banks, credit unions, and online lenders. The application process is usually easiest with online lenders, but overall they’re much quicker than other loans. Sometimes the approval process might just take a few days.

 Credit cards

A credit card (sometimes multiple cards) might seem like a good way to pay for your move quickly. You might even be thinking about the potential to earn rewards in the process. But it’s not always the best idea.

Credit cards offer revolving debt, which means that, unlike personal loans, you don’t have to re-apply for credit when you need more money. The downside to that, however, is a higher interest rate. A good credit score will get you a credit card with an APR around 18 percent to 20 percent, while a personal loan can be closer to 10 percent.

Personal loan

Monthly payment Details Term Interest Paid $98.22 11% APR 36 months $535.78

Credit card loan

Monthly payment Details Term Interest Paid $120

12-month 0% intro APR, then 21%

36 months $979.92

Credit card loan

Monthly payment Details Term Interest Paid $300

12-month 0% intro APR, then 21%

10 months $0

Let’s say you’ve crunched the numbers, and you expect your total expense to be $3,000. (That’s pretty conservative, even for an intrastate move.) And the largest monthly payment you can afford is around $100. A personal loan with an 11 percent APR and 3-year term will get you a monthly payment of $98.22. Over the life of the loan, you’ll pay around $536 in interest.

Most zero percent introductory credit card offers run from 12 to 18 months. So if you could afford to pay around $300 toward your balance every month, you could benefit from a credit card because you wouldn’t incur any interest. If not, a personal loan offers a lower payment and saves more than $400 over the life of your loan. Plus, you can’t be tempted to swipe a personal loan at the department store and add to your debt.

Here’s the bottom line: You should only use a credit card with a zero percent introductory interest rate offer for larger expenses, like relocation, when you can afford to pay several hundred dollars on your balance every month. (Ideally, you should pay it off completely before the 0% intro period ends.)

Don’t forget to ask about relocation assistance

If you’re relocating for work, don’t forget to ask about relocation assistance. It can be difficult to ask for help for fear of sounding demanding or greedy, but remember, the worst your employer can say is no.

 

Weighing the costs: Should you transfer a car loan to credit card?

Man reviewing his bills at a desk

It makes financial sense to seek the lowest interest rate possible when borrowing money, right? You might be tempted to transfer a car loan to a credit card if you get a zero percent introductory APR for a top rewards credit card.

If you qualify, you’ll get a lower interest rate, plus rewards you can redeem for a dream vacation, cash back, or even a statement credit.

But is transferring a car loan to a credit card a smart choice? The answer depends on several factors – starting with how you initiate the transfer.

How to transfer a car loan to a credit card

If you can transfer your car loan to a credit card and then pay in full, you’ll get the intro APR without any balance transfer fees.

But some loan issuers only permit payments via check, cash, ACH direct transfer or money order. In that case, you can use the balance transfer checks that came with your new credit card.

You can also do a balance transfer direct from your car loan company to your credit card issuer. You’ll need to provide your issuer with your loan account number, the address where you’d mail payments and the name of the loan company. If you’re used to making online payments, it’s a good idea to call your loan provider to confirm this information.

When you use a balance transfer check or initiate the transfer through your credit card issuer, you could pay balance transfer fees.

Before you make the transfer, get answers to these questions:

• Will the creditor that holds your car loan permit you to use a credit card to pay the loan balance?
• If you can’t use your credit card, can you use a balance transfer check to pay the balance?
• Are there any penalties for paying the car loan early?
• How much will you pay in balance transfer fees?
• How long does the intro APR last?

How to calculate the credit card interest rate

Before you decide to transfer your car loan to a credit card, calculate how much your new payments will be.

To calculate your monthly payments at zero percent interest, just divide the amount left on your loan with the terms of your intro APR offer. If you have to pay a balance transfer fee, add that to the loan amount.

If you owe $5,000 on your car, with a three percent balance transfer fee, add $150 to the $5,000. Then divide $5,150 by 18 months, for example, if those are the terms of your intro APR. You’d pay $287 per month, which is most likely lower than any car loan that doesn’t carry a zero percent APR.

If you intend to own your car for several years, extending your loan by nine months to free up working capital to pay down higher interest debt, put in a high interest savings account, or even pay for emergency expenses can be a wise choice.

The impact on your credit score

Your credit score could suffer if you exchange a secure installment loan for unsecured, revolving credit. If you don’t have other installment loans in your profile, you are reducing your credit diversity. And if putting the balance of your vehicle loan on your card brings you closer to your credit limit, you will also reduce your credit score due to high credit utilization.

These are significant factors that make up your credit score, so if you are looking to secure a mortgage or another car loan within the next year, transferring your car loan may not be a wise financial choice.

If you already have another installment loan in your credit profile and the balance transfer doesn’t approach 30 percent of the available credit on your card, the effect on your credit score will be minimal and you can move ahead with the transfer.

Otherwise, you may consider other options, such as refinancing your car loan.

Getting an auto loan vs. getting a credit card

If you have poor-to-average credit, it’s easier to get an auto loan than a credit card. Car dealers will often make deals with banks to extend credit to customers with credit scores of 640 and below. Even if you have declared bankruptcy, you can find a car loan – but the interest rates will be high.

Similarly, you can get a secured credit card with a low credit score. But the best zero percent interest APR rewards credit card offers are typically extended to those with a credit score of 720 and above.

If your credit score was below 720 at the time you purchased your vehicle, but you’ve since qualified for a zero percent APR credit card, your payments will be less than your car loan for the duration of the zero percent offer. You’ll save on interest charges, too.

Pros and cons of transferring a high interest car loan to a low interest credit card

Pros

• You could save hundreds of dollars in interest over the life of the loan.

• You may reduce your monthly payments.

• You can earn credit card rewards with the new charge or balance transfer.

• The loan company will release the lien on your car and sign the title over to you.

Cons

• Your credit score may drop due to taking on more revolving debt and increasing your credit utilization ratio.

• If you miss a payment on the credit card, your APR could skyrocket.

• If you can’t pay off the balance transfer or new charge during the introductory period, your interest rate may be higher than it was on your vehicle loan.

Bottom line

If you do choose to transfer your car loan to a credit card with a low introductory interest rate, be sure to have a good understanding of your credit card company’s policy for doing so, as well as the requirements to get the introductory rate with no penalties.

7 tips for navigating student loans on your taxes

Young couple paying bills in living room

An estimated 40 million Americans have student loan debt. While many are seeking to pay off their loan burdens as soon as possible, interest continues to accrue.

The good news is the government wants to help manage those interest payments.

Come tax season, there are a few ways to include your student loans while filing your taxes. And if you’re still in school, a few tax credits might help you as well.

Before considering deductions and credits, knowing the basics of how student loans play into your taxes is essential.

Here are seven tips for navigating your student loans while filing your taxes.

1. Use the student loan interest deduction

The biggest benefit of paying your student loans (besides them eventually being paid off, of course,) is that you can write off interest paid as a deduction, which can potentially help you save hundreds on your tax bill.

You can deduct up to $2,500 through the student loan interest deduction; it does not need to be itemized. Those who have paid $600 or more in interest on their loans will be sent a Form 1098-E from their student loan servicer.

“Even if you’re below the $600, that by itself doesn’t mean that you aren’t able to claim a deduction,” says Eric Bronnenkant, head of tax at Betterment. “It just means you won’t get a tax form from your servicer. But you should still take advantage of the deduction.”

Keep in mind that a tax deduction is different from a tax credit. Under a credit, you subtract the credit amount from your total taxes due; with a deduction, your taxable income is reduced by the deduction amount and you save a percentage of money you aren’t paying taxes on, according to your tax bracket.

The deduction also comes with limits. If you are filing single with an adjusted gross income over $65,000, the deduction starts to lessen until it’s eliminated at $80,000; the same happens for couples filing jointly with an AGI of $135,000 and phases out at $165,000 for a joint return.

Bronnenkant adds that the standard deduction increased this year, and that you don’t need to itemize the student loan deduction — it’s an “above the line” reduction. This means you can claim both the standard deduction and student loan interest deduction, thus lowering your overall tax bill even more, Bronnenkant says.

2. Filing as a dependent

If your parent is claiming you as a dependent, you cannot deduct student loan interest from your overall tax bill.

However, Bronnenkant points out that if someone is helping you pay your student loans, like a parent or grandparent, and is not listing you as a dependent, you can still take advantage of the interest deduction.

“Let’s say you’re 25 years old, on your own, not a dependent anymore,” Bronnenkant says. “Say you’re struggling and your grandparents are paying your student loans to help you get by. That’s fine — that’s actually a good thing. It’s actually assumed the money is gifted to the grandchild, who then pays the interest — and so the grandchild gets the deduction in this scenario.”

3. Watch out for the marriage penalty

The marriage penalty is an industry nickname for a total tax bill being affected by a married couple filing their taxes jointly. Often, joint filing can result in a higher total tax bill than if the couple filed separately.

Bronnenkant says that there aren’t any situations where being married and filing separately would be beneficial while deducting student loan interest on taxes. In fact, married couples filing separately are not eligible for the student loan interest deduction.

4. Take advantage of relevant tax credits if you’re still in school

While those still in school aren’t required to make payments toward their student loans, that doesn’t mean they can’t use their student status to their full advantage on their taxes.

There are two main tax credits for those who are still in school:

The American Opportunity Credit

The American Opportunity Credit is worth up to $2,500 per student per year, but can only be claimed four total tax years per student.

The AOC has strict qualifying requirements, including:

  • The student must be attending school at least half-time for at least one academic term.
  • The student must not have finished the first four years of a post-secondary program prior to the end of the tax year.
  • The student must be pursuing a program that will end with a degree or other recognized credential.

The Lifetime Learning Credit

The Lifetime Learning Credit, worth up to $2,000 per year, per student, has less strict requirements:

  • There is no minimum on hours enrolled to qualify, and no limit to how many years the credit can be claimed.
  • The credit covers tuition, books, fees and supplies for any student pursuing college or career education.

5. Avoid default at all cost

More than 1 million people default on their student loans each year. Not only can defaulting on anything hurt your credit loan, it has the potential to have your wages garnished — or your tax return withheld.

“This won’t happen if you’ve taken appropriate steps to set up a repayment plan or forgiveness program,” says Josh Zimmelman, owner and president of Westwood Tax & Consulting. “But if you’re just in default on your loans, then your tax refund is at risk.”

Student loans don’t go into default if you miss one payment. Ninety days after a loan is past due, it is then reported to the three major credit bureaus. After 270 days, the loan goes into default — which is when it drastically damages credit and erases any eligibility for deferment, forbearance and forgiveness.

If you are struggling with student loan payments, consider calling your servicer to create a plan that will help you better manage the cost. You might be eligible for a hardship program or settlement.

6. Don’t use 529 funds to make student loan payments

Under current law, funds in 529 plans can be used on a 100 percent tax-free basis when put toward qualified educational expenses, such as tuition and fees or room and board.

However, you cannot use 529 funds to make student loans payments. If you do, you’ll be hit with a 10 percent penalty and will be taxed on that money as income.

7. Received forgiveness? Get ready to pay

Student loans are not taxable as income.

However, if you are granted loan forgiveness, then you will be taxed on the total amount forgiven.

Keep in mind that loan forgiveness is not the same as loan discharge. Any student loan debt that is discharged due to death or total and permanent disability (TPD) is no longer taxable. This law is in effect for eligible loans discharged from Jan. 1, 2018 to Dec. 31, 2025.

Resources for tax help with student loans

Overall, navigating student loans on your taxes can be tricky. Thankfully, there are plenty of resources available to help guide you through the process.

Those who want direct help from the IRS can access the 970 worksheet, titled “Tax Benefits for Education,” through its website. This worksheet outlines tuition reductions, how to claim credits, an explanation of the interest deduction and more.

Those who feel unsure of filing their taxes themselves should reach out to a certified accountant for help.

Need more help? Check out Bankrate’s 10 best tax-planning tips for filing in 2019.

How To Use Home Equity To Consolidate Your Debt

Home interior of livingroom

If you feel like you’re struggling with debt, you’re not alone.

The average amount of non-mortgage household debt in the U.S. reached $24,706 in 2017, according to Experian’s State of Credit Report. The good news is that home equity interest rates are still near historic lows. Assuming you have enough equity in your home, this avenue of debt consolidation could be a better and cheaper alternative to carrying high-interest debt.

“It’s generally a good option to pay down credit card debts or personal loans, assuming it’s done responsibly,” says Andrew Weinberg, principal at Silver Fin Capital Mortgage in Great Neck, New York. “It can save a lot of money.”

Get pre-qualified

Answer a few questions to see which personal loans you pre-qualify for. The process is quick and easy, and it will not impact your credit score.

Get Started

There are two ways to access home equity – a home equity loan or a home equity line of credit, or HELOC. A home equity loan offers a one-time lump sum payment of funds taken as a second mortgage on your home. A home equity line of credit is a revolving line of credit that enables you to withdraw money over time as you need it and pay back the loan as you can.

Your home’s equity is its current value minus the loan balance you still owe. Tapping too much of your equity is risky, and you could wind up underwater in your mortgage if market conditions turn. This means you might owe more on the house than it’s worth, making it difficult for you to move without putting up cash to make up the difference.

“The value of a house goes up and can go down. As a general rule, I would never recommend anyone borrow more than 80 percent of their home’s value,” says Mike Zovistoski, managing director at UHY Advisors.

Pros of using home equity to consolidate debt

Whether you use a home equity loan or HELOC, tapping your home equity to consolidate debt can offer several advantages:

1. You’ll have just one payment

If you’re juggling car loans, a personal loan, medical bills and credit card debt, you already know how challenging it can be to keep track of due dates. By consolidating your debt, you may be able to combine it all to one single payment per month, simplifying your bills and reducing the chance of missed payments.

2. You’ll know when your debt will be paid off

Assuming you don’t keep using your cards, using a home equity loan or HELOC to consolidate debt streamlines the process of paying those accounts off. With a home equity loan product, you’ll have set repayment terms and know the exact date when the loan will be repaid.

3. You can get a lower interest rate

Because the debt is secured against your property, home equity loans and HELOCs have significantly lower interest rates than credit cards. The average variable credit card interest rate was 17.87 percent as of late April, according to Bankrate data. Meanwhile, the average rate of a home equity loan was 5.9 percent and 6.75 percent on a $30,000 HELOC.

A home equity loan also enables you to lock in an interest rate, unlike a credit card that can increase at any time. Additionally, with a home equity loan, more of your monthly payment goes toward the principal rather than the interest.

“It’s almost always going to be a better deal than the rates you’ll pay on credit cards,” Weinberg says of home equity products.

4. You can save money

The ability to lock in a lower rate not only saves money in the long term, but can also equate to a lower monthly payment and help you pay down the debt faster.

For example, if you had $10,000 in credit card debt at a 16 percent interest rate, you’d pay $243 per month and more than $4,591 in interest by the time you pay it off. Consolidating that debt with a five-year home equity loan would not only allow you to pay off the debt faster, but also reduce your monthly payments to $193 and save $3,391 in interest.

“If the borrower is able to continue making the same monthly payment amounts that were originally scheduled on the high-cost debt, they would be able to repay the debt over a shorter period of time and save money,” Zovistoski says.

Use a home equity debt consolidation calculator to find out how much you could save.

Cons of using home equity to consolidate debt

While a home equity loan or HELOC can be a good way to consolidate and better manage debt, it comes with several risks and downsides:

1. It takes time

Unlike opening a credit card or filling out an application for a personal loan, applying for a home equity loan or HELOC is a more in-depth process. The bank will typically want an appraisal of your home along with two years of tax returns, W-2s and bank statements. It can typically take up to 30 days or more to close on a home equity loan or HELOC and get access to the money.

2. Your house is the collateral

HELOCs and home equity loans are forms of secured debt that use your home as collateral. This enables lenders to offer much lower interest rates and more favorable terms than credit card companies, but it presents a greater risk: losing your home if you fail to repay the loan.

While credit card companies and personal lenders can’t come after your home, a bank could foreclose on your home if you default on a HELOC or home equity loan. In other words, don’t take out a HELOC or home equity loan unless you can comfortably afford the payments, in addition to your normal monthly mortgage payment, Zovistoski says.

3. Lender fees and closing costs

Depending on the lender you choose, you’ll likely face some charges such as closing costs and appraisal fees, all of which can add to the cost of the loan. When shopping for a lender, make sure you understand the closing costs that each lender charges and how it will affect overall borrowing costs. Some may claim to offer no fees, then add them back in later as penalties if you close the account before the term ends, Weinberg says.

4. You may fall back into debt

One of the greatest risks is that you may use home equity to pay off your credit card debts only to run those same cards up again. People who have a history of debt problems can be susceptible to falling into the hole again. It’s not an uncommon scenario, Weinberg says.

“They may come back in a couple of years and be back where they were with more credit card debt,” Weinberg says. “You can only do it so many times before you run out of equity.”

5. Tax deductibility is restricted

Under previous tax laws you could deduct the interest you paid on a home equity loan or HELOC, regardless of its use. The new tax law now restricts the mortgage interest deduction on home equity loans or HELOCs to use the money to buy, build or renovate the home you’re borrowing against. Even so, the significant savings in interest rates on home equity products compared to credit card rates still make home equity borrowing a worthwhile option.

Other alternatives for consolidating debt

Tapping home equity may not be the best option for people with serious debt and credit problems. If that’s the case, or if you don’t have enough equity in your home, debt relief programs may be a better option.

One avenue is to work with a certified, non-profit credit counseling agency on a debt management plan. It won’t hurt your credit score but will require you to close all your accounts included in the plan. You’ll have to make monthly payments to the agency which in turn then makes the payments to your creditors. If you have debts with multiple credit cards or lenders, you’ll be saved the hassle of tracking multiple bills and due dates.

Another option is a debt settlement plan. While you’ll be able to reduce the balance by agreeing to settle with one or more creditors for less than what you owe, your credit score will suffer significantly. You’ll also have to pay fees and income taxes on the amount forgiven, a consideration that could make debt management less attractive.

Get pre-qualified

Answer a few questions to see which personal loans you pre-qualify for. The process is quick and easy, and it will not impact your credit score.

Get Started

Bottom line

It’s a smart idea to shop around with several different home equity lenders to ensure you get the best rates and terms. Having a plan for how you’ll attack high-interest debt — and how you’ll repay your home equity loan or HELOC — can set up your finances for a more secure future.

Shop for a home equity loan or HELOC from Bankrate lending partners

Learn more:

Changing Rates Icon showing rates changing over time.

Get the best home equity rates in your area.

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Home Equity Line of Credit Payoff Calculator

Refinancing your HELOC into a Home Equity Loan

HELOC payments tend to get more expensive over time. There are two reasons for this: adjustable rates and entering the repayment phase of the loan.

HELOCs are variable rate loans, which means your interest rate will adjust periodically. In a rising-rate environment, this could mean larger monthly payments.

Additionally, once the draw period ends borrowers are responsible for both the principal and interest. This steep rise in the monthly HELOC payment can be a shock to borrowers who were making interest-only payments for the first 10 or 15 years. Sometimes the new HELOC payment can double or even triple what the borrower was paying for the last decade.

To save money, borrowers can refinance their HELOC. Here we’ll take a look at two options and how they work.

Home equity loan

You can take out a home equity loan, which has a fixed rate, and use this new loan to pay off the HELOC. The advantage of doing this is that you could dodge those rate adjustments. The disadvantage is that you would be responsible for paying closing costs.

New HELOC

Apply for a new HELOC to replace the old one. This allows you to avoid that principal and interest payment while keeping your line of credit open. If you have improved your credit since you got the first HELOC, you might even qualify for a lower interest rate.

If you’re interested in refinancing with a HELOC or home equity loan, use Bankrate’s home equity loan rates table to see current rates.

Home equity loans vs. HELOCs

Home equity loans and home equity lines of credit, or HELOCs, are two types of loans that use the value of your house as collateral. They’re both considered second mortgages.

The main difference between them is that with home equity loans you get one lump sum of money whereas HELOCs are lines of credit which you can draw from as needed.

Paying off a home equity loan

The faster pay off your loan, the less interest you’ll pay. You might even be able to reduce your interest rate by refinancing your loan to a shorter term. Often, lenders will reward shorter terms with lower interest rates, so it’s worth investigating if you want to pay off your loan faster.

Before you get the loan, find out if there’s a penalty for paying it off early. If there is a penalty, factor that amount into your calculations.

You should also note any balloon payments that are included in your contract. These are large lump sums owed at the end of your home equity loan term. Some loans are not amortized, which means you could end up making interest-only monthly payments only to have the full principal balance due on a specific date.

This could mean trouble for homeowners who haven’t prepared. If your loan has a balloon payment, set aside enough money each month to make that payment when it comes due.

Paying off a HELOC

HELOCs are different from home equity loans in that they function more like a credit card. Your lender will extend credit, based on several factors including your credit history and the equity in your house. You only owe what you borrow. For example, if you’re extended $50,000 and use just $25,000, then you only owe $25,000.

Many HELOCs allow borrowers to make interest only payments during the draw period, which can vary. Normally, draw periods last between 10 and 15 years. When that period ends, you must make principal and interest payments.

HELOCs can become a drain on your finances if you put off making payments on the principal. If possible, make extra monthly payments on your principal. Like home equity loans, find out if there are prepayment penalties.

Auto Loan Refinancing - When to Refinance Your Car Loan

Two women in the car

When you’ve gone through the effort of getting a car loan, it can be tempting to simply pay it off and never look back. Before you engage the cruise control, though, consider the potential benefits of a refinancing an auto loan.

People typically refinance an auto loan because they’ve found a better interest rate, which would result in them saving money. But there are other situations when refinancing would make sense. The key is keeping an eye out for any of the five following situations and being prepared to act.

  • Situation 1: You see interest rates dropping. Interest rates on all sorts of consumer loans periodically rise or fall, influenced largely by the monetary policies of the Federal Reserve. The Fed has raised interest rates three times in 2018, but history shows that reductions will eventually come around. When they do, be ready to look for your opening.
  • Situation 2: You want to improve on a “dealer-sourced” loan. If you financed your car through the dealership, you likely got a higher interest rate than you could have thanks to something called a dealer markup. A dealer’s preferred lenders commonly charge higher rates, and part of difference goes back to the dealership. Compare your current loan with offers from other sources (your bank or credit union, an online lender, etc.) to see if you can get a lower interest rate with a refinance car loan.
  • Situation 3: Your credit score has improved. All those months of diligently paying off your current loan can have a positive effect on your overall creditworthiness. Lenders typically see a good credit score as a sign of a less risky borrower, which in turn can lead to offering better interest rates. If your credit score has improved since you took out the loan, you might be able to save money on interest through a refinance. You can check your credit for free on Bankrate.
  • Situation 4: You want to buy the car you’re currently leasing. Car leases typically include an option to buy at the end of the lease. You can get a refinance loan to buy the car outright when your lease expires, although this approach has its pros and cons. If you want to save money on a lease-to-purchase, you’ll need to make sure that the total cost of buying the car, including interest on your refinance auto loan, would be lower than extending the lease or leasing a different car.
  • Situation 5. You need lower monthly payments. Sometimes refinancing a car loan is a life preserver, not a windfall. If you run into financial trouble and want to reduce your car payment, you could refinance a loan with a longer term (from 36 months to 48 months, for instance). Although you would pay less per month, expect to pay more total over the life of the longer loan.

How to track refinance interest rates

Most refinance opportunities involve taking advantage of a better interest rate. If you find an interest rate substantially lower than what you’re paying on your original loan, it could be time to get a new deal with a refinance car loan.

One easy way to keep an eye on interest rates is by checking the Bankrate auto loan lender marketplace, which includes current offers on refinance car loans.

Also, Bankrate’s Auto Refinance Calculator lets you compare your current loan with a new offer side-by-side. Just enter a few pieces of information, including your current monthly payment and the balance you owe, to see how much you could save by refinancing.

When is refinancing a bad idea?

In some cases, refinancing may not make good financial sense for either you or the potential lender. Those situations include:

  • When you’re well into paying off your current loan. Through the amortization process, your interest charges gradually decrease over the life of the loan. As a result, a refinance has more potential to save money when you’re in the earlier stages of repaying the original loan.
  • When you’re trying to refinance an older or high-mileage car. Most lenders won’t find it worthwhile to issue a loan on a car that has significantly depreciated in value.
  • If you’re “upside-down” on the original loan. Lenders typically avoid refinancing if the borrower owes more than the car’s value (also known as being underwater).

Let smart shopping drive the decision to refinance

If you’re wondering how to refinance a car, the process isn’t that different from buying the car itself. You’ll want to shop around for a good deal and take a couple of test-drives (in this case, with the Auto Refinance Calculator).

If everything falls into place, you could be looking at a more financially comfortable ride.

Which Type Of CD Is Best For You?

Couple looking online for best CD rate

The traditional certificate of deposit account remains the most popular type of CD. However, it’s far from the only option. Financial institutions offer a variety of non-traditional CD products. These specialized CDs can: give savers more flexibility to benefit from rising rates, provide early access to their funds or offer better-than-average rates of return. If you’re willing to sacrifice some yield or tolerate some additional risk, you might find a CD better suited to meet your financial needs.

But first, what is a CD account?

A certificate of deposit is a time deposit account. A bank agrees to pay interest at a certain rate if savers deposit their cash for a set term, or period of time.

11 types of CD accounts

1. Traditional CD

With a traditional CD, you deposit a fixed amount of money for a specific term and receive a fixed interest rate. You have the option of cashing out at the end of the term or rolling over the CD for another term. Most institutions don’t allow you to add additional funds before your traditional CD matures.

Penalties for early withdrawal can be quite stiff and will cause you to lose interest, and possibly principal. Federal regulation — Regulation D, specifically — sets only the minimum early withdrawal penalty for traditional CDs. There is no law preventing an institution from enacting tougher penalties, but the institution must disclose those fees when the account is opened.

Before you pick a CD, it’s important to calculate how much interest you could earn by the end of your term.

2. Bump-up CD

A bump-up CD helps you benefit from a rising-rate environment. Suppose you buy a two-year CD at a given rate, and six months into the term the bank offers an additional quarter-point on the same investment.

A bump-up CD gives you the option of telling the bank you want to get the higher rate for the remainder of the term. Institutions that offer this CD option usually allow only one bump-up per term.

The drawback is you may get a lower initial rate on a bump-up CD than on a traditional CD. The longer it takes interest rates to rise, the longer it will take to make up for the earlier, lower-rate portion of the term.

Be sure you have realistic expectations about the interest-rate environment before buying a bump-up CD. See how bump-up CD deals stack up against traditional CD rates.

3. Step-up CDs

In a rising-rate environment, you might also want to consider a financial institution that offers a step-up CD.

It’s not uncommon to see a step-up CD and a bump-up CD lumped together. Both of them will help you move up into a higher yield. However, they are different products. Rather than requiring you to ask the bank for a higher rate as bump-up CDs do, step-up CDs will automatically increase their rates throughout their terms at certain intervals.

They are not too common, however. Moreover, there is a big caveat: There is no guarantee that you would end up better off than you would have if you had parked your money in a traditional CD. The blended APY could be less than you would make with a traditional CD. As such, you’ll want to evaluate the starting APY as well as how much the rate is increasing before making a decision.

4. Liquid CD

Liquid CDs, or no-penalty CDs, offer investors the opportunity to withdraw their money without incurring a penalty. However, these types of CDs may come with strict withdrawal limits and large minimum investment requirements.

You can generally expect the interest rate on a liquid CD to be higher than that of a savings or money market deposit. But it’s usually lower than the rate on a traditional CD of the same term. You’ll have to weigh the convenience of liquidity against whatever return you’re sacrificing.

A key consideration when purchasing a liquid CD is how soon you can make a withdrawal after opening the account. Most banks require that the money stay in the account for at least seven days before it can be withdrawn without penalty, but banks can set the first penalty-free withdrawal for any time period. It’s important to read the fine print before picking up a liquid CD.

5. Zero-coupon CD

These CDs are similar to zero-coupon bonds. As with the bond, you buy the CD at a deep discount to its par value (or the amount you’ll receive when the CD matures).

“Coupon” refers to a periodic interest payment. “Zero-coupon” means there are no interest payments.

So, you might buy a 12-year, $100,000 CD for $50,000, and you wouldn’t receive any interest payments over the course of the term. You’d receive the $100,000 face value when the CD matures.

One drawback is that zero-coupon CDs are usually long-term investments, and you take on considerable interest-rate risk. If interest rates rise during the 10-year term in question, you’ll be on the losing end of that deal.

Another potential problem is that you’re credited with phantom income each year. No money is being put in your pocket, but you’ll have to pay Uncle Sam on the earnings being accrued.

In our example, you’d earn $3,000 during the first year and would owe tax on the money, though you haven’t actually received it. Each year, you’ll have a higher base than the year before — and a bigger tax bill. Make sure you have room in your budget to cover the taxes.

6. Callable CD

With a callable CD, you could get a higher yield than with traditional CDs but with a risk: the bank that issues the CD can “call” it away from you after your call-protection period expires, and before the CD matures. For instance, if you buy a five-year CD with a six-month call-protection period, the institution could call it back after the first six months.

Just as with the zero-coupon CD, the bank is shifting interest-rate risk on to your shoulders. If it issues a five-year CD at 3 percent and six months later rates drop by a full percent, the bank will drop its rate as well. It’ll now be paying 2 percent on the five-year CD you originally got at 3 percent.

The bank can call, or take back, your CD and reissue it at the lower 2 percent. You’ll receive your full principal and interest earned. But you’re stuck reinvesting your money at lower rates.

Usually, banks pay a premium for you taking on the risk that the CD may be called. They may pay investors a quarter- or half-percent more on a callable CD than they would on a CD without the call feature.

7. Brokered CD

A brokered CD is simply a certificate of deposit sold through a brokerage firm. To qualify for one, you’ll need a brokerage account. Some banks use brokers as sales representatives to find investors willing to purchase the banks’ CDs.

Buying CDs through a brokerage can be convenient. There’s no need to open accounts at a variety of banks just to get the best CD yields. Brokered CDs may pay higher rates than CDs from your local bank because banks using brokered CDs compete in a national marketplace. But that’s not always the case.

Brokered CDs are more liquid than bank CDs because they can be traded like bonds on the secondary market. But there is no guarantee you won’t take a loss. The only way to guarantee getting your full principal and interest is to hold the CD until maturity.

Don’t assume all brokered CDs are backed by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. It’s up to you to do your due diligence and look for that FDIC seal on the broker’s website. You should also watch out for brokered CDs that have call options. And before you invest, check on fees and early withdrawal policies.

8. High-yield CD

Banks compete for deposits by offering better-than-average rates. High-yield CD accounts may offer two or three times the national average on a given term. These are generally traditional CD accounts that pay very generous returns. Bankrate offers the best route for finding the highest rates in the nation.

Bankrate surveys local and national institutions to find banks offering the highest yields on CDs. All accounts are directly offered to the consumer by the institution.

Take time to compare the best CD rates. Then calculate your potential earnings.

9. Jumbo CD

Just as its name implies, a jumbo CD requires a larger deposit than a traditional CD. To get one, you would typically need to make a minimum deposit of $100,000. In some instances, that deposit threshold will be somewhat lower.

While jumbo CDs could pay more than a traditional CD, they might not. A five-year jumbo CD on average pays 1.55 percent APY, while a 5-year CD rate pays 1.49 percent as of late January, according to Bankrate’s national survey of banks and thrifts.

In putting tens of thousands of dollars into a jumbo CD, there’s a risk of whether the account will keep up with the inflation rate. Also don’t forget to consider your tax bite: The interest you earn will be taxed as ordinary income.

10. IRA CD

Individual retirement accounts hold investments. IRA CDs are IRAs where you invest in CDs.

IRA CDs may appeal to the risk-averse who are preparing to pad their retirement savings with guaranteed returns – you’ll know how much you’ll make over the product’s term so long as you keep the CD until its maturity. You will also have protection of up to $250,000 from the government if you purchase IRA CDs from an FDIC-insured institution. Translation: If the bank goes bust, your money won’t.

The trade-off is that you won’t make high returns on these investments. While they can help you diversify your portfolio, IRA CDs are not generally viewed as smart retirement strategies for younger investors, who can take on more risk.

Just like with the other CD types, make sure you shop around for the best yields. To effectively use an IRA CD, fund one with money you won’t need until age 59 1/2, so you don’t have to pay a tax on early distributions.

11. Add-on CD

Most CDs let you make only an initial deposit. But add-on CDs let you make multiple deposits into the account during the CD’s term. However, how many deposits you can make into an add-on CDs varies. So, make sure you read the fine print.

These accounts are worth considering if you are saving for a goal.

Make sure you look around to find the best rates. And reminder, try not to lock up your money for too long at times when interest rates are expected to increase.

What is a money market account?

Stock chart in paper

You are looking for a low-risk way to earn a competitive rate. Then, you stumble upon something promising: a money market account that pays a high yield. You have just one question: what in the world is a money market account?

A money market account is a financial tool for storing your savings safely, and it is quite similar to a traditional savings account. A money market account is great for when you want a low-risk way to earn a competitive rate on your cash.

Generally, a money market account pays a higher interest rate than a savings account; however, the account tends to include more restrictions, such as requiring a higher minimum balance. It wouldn’t be surprising for the financial institution to require $5,000 or more to open a money market account, for example.

You will, however, often have the ability to write checks from the account and/or a debit card to access your money. But a money market account is not a checking account, and there are limits on your ability to use these tools to move money in and out of the account. A money market account will allow up to six withdrawals or transfers a month because of a federal mandate.

Brick-and-mortar banks, online banks and credit unions offer the deposit account.

Are money market accounts FDIC-insured?

Your money is safe in a money market account if it’s offered by a bank or credit union.

At banks, the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. insures up to $250,000. At credit unions, the National Credit Union Association insures up to $250,000.

Should the bank or credit union fail, the FDIC or NCUA guarantees your money will remain safe.

For money market accounts, banks and credit unions can use your deposits for low-risk investments, like certificates of deposit. But again, your money is still safe in these accounts.

How do I choose the best money market account?

First and foremost, shop around.

As you do your research, one of the most important factors to consider is the product’s annual percentage yield. The annual percentage yield, or APY, alerts you to how much you will earn with compound interest over the year. In other words, it’s the interest earned on your first deposit as well as the interest earned on top of other interest earnings — the higher the number is, the more your money will grow.

Next, look out for account restrictions. You’ll want to check to see whether or not the account requirements are too onerous to earn the yield or to sidestep a fee. It’s not uncommon to see hefty balance requirements. For example, BMO Harris Bank currently requires a $5,000 minimum opening deposit to earn 2.45 percent APY on its money market account.

Also, make sure you look for fees, including whether the account charges you a penalty if you close it within three months of opening it. Look out for monthly fees, transfer fees, shipping fees, inactive account fees and other penalties.

You can use Bankrate to compare money market accounts.

Should I open a money market account?

If you’re looking to earn a higher rate without taking on risk for your shorter-term goals, you should consider opening a money market account. For example, you may want to open a money market account if:

  • You want relatively easy access to your savings.
  • Need a place to park your emergency savings or another shorter-term financial goal.
  • Want the ability to write a limited amount of checks.
  • Desire a predictable APY and a federally insured account.

Can you lose money in a money market account?

A money market account is a safe place to park your money, so long as you aren’t depositing more than $250,000 — the amount FDIC-insured banks and NCUA-insured credit unions insure against losses — in a single account.

Importantly, a money market account is separate from a money market fund. The money market account is FDIC-insured; the money market fund is not.

What is a money market account good for?

If you want to park your savings somewhere but still have relatively easy access to it, a money market account is a good option to consider.

A money market account is a solid option to keep funds for your shorter-term savings goals, like a wedding or home repair. It’s also a good place to keep your emergency fund.

Are you taxed on money market accounts?

You must report all taxable and tax-exempt interest on your federal income tax return, even if it’s just a couple of dollars.

If you earn $10 on interest on an account, your bank will send you a 1099-INT for interest earned during that year. Even if you earn less than $10, you still need to report it on your tax return to the IRS. You will want to report the interest the year that you earn it.

Contact your accountant to answer your specific tax questions.

What is the difference between a money market account and a savings account?

Savings accounts and money market accounts have more in common than not: They pay interest, and they are designed to keep you saving. But there are a few distinctions that should help you choose the product that suits your needs best, including:

  • Generally, you will have to park more money in a money market account than you will in a savings account.
  • The money market account, on average, pays twice the savings account APY, according to Bankrate data (0.25 percent APY vs. 0.1 percent APY).
  • With a money market account, you can get checks — don’t expect this tool in your savings account.

If you are deciding between a money market account and a certificate of deposit, evaluate your goals. A CD could pay you a more competitive rate than a money market account, but your money is more liquid in a money market account than a CD.

Remember, there are always exceptions. Some savings accounts pay higher yields than money market accounts, and not all money market accounts offer ATM access or check-writing privileges. Bottom line: Do your research and shop around to find the account that works best for you.

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